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Thanks, B. After trying everything I knew, and inventing a number of other possible solutions, I had to leave the problem for a while and clear my head. (Yes, folks! That really does work.) When I returned, I had realised that I missed something basic in the BIOS. Basic, but tricky; because...

While I've never owned, or used as Sony laptop, I have had a similar experience with an IBM Thinkpad. Certain function keys would not work properly, or at all; brightness was one of them. Another was the function key for getting out of sleep mode. After upgrading the BIOS, this was resolved...

The answer is likely in your BIOS. It may be at the default settings. You may need to fiddle with these settings, but I wouldn't suggest it unless you are intimately familiar with your CPU's specs. If that's the case, then adjust the settings a little bit at a time; and keep checking the CPU...

Yes! Disable it both in the BIOS and in the Device Manager settings. If you only disable it in the Device Manager settings, it's possible that Windows will reactivate it after the next boot up. Once it's disabled in the BIOS, that can't happen. Mick Complacency is the rigor mortis of the soul.

The quick answer to your question is: No, it depends upon the design specs of the chipset & motherboard manufacturer. On the other hand it's not uncommon for a BIOS upgrade to allow a faster CPU to function with an existing motherboard. This is occurs, because as fast as a motherboard can be...

That's what I feared would be the worst case, Murray. Although wouldn't blowing the CMOS essentially wipe out the settings that are currently written to the chip now? In any case, the way I see it is that it's usually cheaper to attempt to blow the CMOS and if it doesn't work, replace the mobo...

Sounds like it's overheating, but you seem to suspect as much. Did you purchase a name-brand PS, or was it an el cheapo from a fly-by-night computer hack store? If it's the latter, you'll probably have to purchase some fans to help cool the system down. Some of those budget PS's can really heat...

There have been a few threads, which are similar, but not quite the same as my problem. I just upgraded my archaic (but trust worthy) Classic (slot A) Athlon 650 & ASUS K7V motherboard to an Athlon XP-1600+ & SOYO SY-K7ADA v1.0 motherboard. It booted up perfectly on the first attempt...

Try disconnecting the cable from the power supply; and then removing the CMOS/RTC battery from the system board. With the system in that state, press the power ON/OFF button on the case. This should drain the capacitors of any residual power. Leave the system for a few minutes as is; then put...

Initially I would suggest that the ATAPI driver has been blown away. If this is the case, you can easily get it from the manufacturer's web site. While you're there you might download the latest firmware as well. Two other possibilities are the IDE cable and the IDE controller on the system...

Agreed, cdogg! Mick Complacency is the rigor mortis of the soul.

Not to sound flippant, but have you tried accessing the BIOS? If the information you require is not there, the simplest method is to open the case and look inside. If you have no succes with that, or with the Windows Device Manager, you might still be able to locate a utility called...

If you'll allow me to quote Gordon Mah Ung, from a popular North American PC mag, in his response to a question regarding performance with respect to your particular question: "Most CPUs perform best when their frontside buses and RAM are running at the same speed. If you were to run the...

Any assistance with the following would be appreciated: My DVD player on my PC has worked fine until recently, when I installed Need For Speed II: Hot Pursuit; then updated the drivers for my 64MB ATI Radeon 7200; as well as installed all the latest Win'98 critical updates. Now, when I try to...