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Wooden case
- Thread starter pilihp
- Start date
I presume that the wooden case is for aesthetics? If so, I would suggest that a far simpler approach would be to find a suitable case to strip down to a minimal chassis and build the case around it.
This sounds like a good idea to me: I reckon that you could find a good market for a bare ATX chassis in a real wood case.
Regards: tf1
This sounds like a good idea to me: I reckon that you could find a good market for a bare ATX chassis in a real wood case.
Regards: tf1
No instability problems. No requirement for a metal ground plane. They are built out of metal for ease of fabrication and to limit the signal radiation.
Had you considered keeping the metal case an encasing it in wood?
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
Had you considered keeping the metal case an encasing it in wood?
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
I remember have seen it done before. In fact, there was a step-by-step manual in a popular case moding site, I wish I could remember the URL. I would google it.
Good luck.
JDL
Good luck.
JDL
tf1 idea is a good one.
If you can get hold of an old HP mini tower, you will find the MB base plate, and the frame to secure any PCI cards is all one piece and simply unscrews. That has the advantage of not having to fiddle with the MB stand-offs, mounting the PCI cards, and getting them all precisely located.
That is exactly what I use for my "bread-board" pc in my workshop.
Cheers,
Brodie
If you can get hold of an old HP mini tower, you will find the MB base plate, and the frame to secure any PCI cards is all one piece and simply unscrews. That has the advantage of not having to fiddle with the MB stand-offs, mounting the PCI cards, and getting them all precisely located.
That is exactly what I use for my "bread-board" pc in my workshop.
Cheers,
Brodie
- Thread starter
- #7
Thank you all very much for your suggestions.
It is encouraging to know that there shouldn't necessarily be any instability problems. I didn't want to use wood cladding on a conventional case as I would still be stuck with that shape but cbs604's suggestion sounds extremly useful. I take the point about a possible heat issue and maybe aluminium foil as a lining inside might help with EMC issues. It is quite amusing googling around some of the ideas that other people have come up with!
regards,
Pilihp
It is encouraging to know that there shouldn't necessarily be any instability problems. I didn't want to use wood cladding on a conventional case as I would still be stuck with that shape but cbs604's suggestion sounds extremly useful. I take the point about a possible heat issue and maybe aluminium foil as a lining inside might help with EMC issues. It is quite amusing googling around some of the ideas that other people have come up with!
regards,
Pilihp
Turn your motherboard over and look at the mounting pads. I checked 5 mobos and found 2 of them (IWill and Soyo), had a pad which would need a ground. Both had a ground for the mouse and keyboard sockets, and one board had a ground pad in the middle. The other boards had the pads seperate from the board on the bottom, but remember these are multi-layer construction, and may have internal connections. I would use some kind of metal plate on the board mounting side, both for ground and RFI radiation.
micker377,
The only thing is I regularly test motherboards outside their cases without problems. While there are too many brands to make any general rule, I tend to vote with Ed Fair's comment earlier that there is no ground plane required by the the motherboard supplied by the case.
For some serial communications, and perhaps other variations, there was always a pin to carry the frame ground between devices; pin #7 on the old DB-25 connectors I my memory has not failed me. Similarly the connection to the power supply always offers the needed ground.
I would hate to say it never happens, but I would guess that it is a decided minority of cases if at all.
The only thing is I regularly test motherboards outside their cases without problems. While there are too many brands to make any general rule, I tend to vote with Ed Fair's comment earlier that there is no ground plane required by the the motherboard supplied by the case.
For some serial communications, and perhaps other variations, there was always a pin to carry the frame ground between devices; pin #7 on the old DB-25 connectors I my memory has not failed me. Similarly the connection to the power supply always offers the needed ground.
I would hate to say it never happens, but I would guess that it is a decided minority of cases if at all.
Also, if you Google there is a lot of information, including shielding issues. Just be sure to use the 'Groups' feature to get the computer/wordwoorking buffs discussions:
Pin 1, Bill, on the D25. But not neccessary for any communications and it was recommended that it be disconnected for longer runs to avoid ground loops between frame grounds on different circuits..
I also do the testbed stuff on a plywood sheet, 1/2" standoffs roughly in place to provide room for the expansion card guide to go below the normal metal plate where the tab usually goes about 1/8" into a slot.
But I also ran a system for years on a plywood sheet in a 9" high 19" rack area without problems. Had it shielded front and back with aluminum mesh and sucked air through with a 5" fan.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
I also do the testbed stuff on a plywood sheet, 1/2" standoffs roughly in place to provide room for the expansion card guide to go below the normal metal plate where the tab usually goes about 1/8" into a slot.
But I also ran a system for years on a plywood sheet in a 9" high 19" rack area without problems. Had it shielded front and back with aluminum mesh and sucked air through with a 5" fan.
Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
Yeah,Bill, I run mobo's like that for test also - but I've never run one un-grounded in a fully operational state (all boards and drives installed). I've also never run an un-shielded case either, interesting concept! I guess the ground pads I found on the IO ports were just for shielding, since they connected to "outside" cords.
I am embarassed to say I just plunk the thing down and connect all devices. I must admit I use a piece of 24"" x 36" corkboard (an office superstore purchase, for $3.99), as occasionally it is nice to use map pins or similar to separate various leads (no, not through the wire), particularly when using a screwdriver to start an ATX box. Far too often I have just assembled a machine into its case from parts and it would not start. I am much happier letting it run for a while before mounting it.
I can happily say I do not have to do this for a living!
I can happily say I do not have to do this for a living!
Now if you had one of those cases that came with a motherboard tray that slid out with the PCI mounts at a 90 degree angle attached that would be ideal. I wonder if you could order just that as a replacement part or cannibalize it from another older case.
Using an item like this keeps you from figuring out how to drill holes for the mounting of the motherboard. If you planned on using any PCI cards you would also have to have a way to hold them up. You may also need to figure out how to get the LED's to let you know the power is on or you have Drive activity. Along with that you need some kind of switch to turn the power supply on and maybe a reset switch as well. You are on your own as far as cabinet making goes. If you could just take the outside off the case and build a new front and a box to go around it, it would look nice.
Here is a wild looking case:
If you do not like my post feel free to point out your opinion or my errors.
Using an item like this keeps you from figuring out how to drill holes for the mounting of the motherboard. If you planned on using any PCI cards you would also have to have a way to hold them up. You may also need to figure out how to get the LED's to let you know the power is on or you have Drive activity. Along with that you need some kind of switch to turn the power supply on and maybe a reset switch as well. You are on your own as far as cabinet making goes. If you could just take the outside off the case and build a new front and a box to go around it, it would look nice.
Here is a wild looking case:
If you do not like my post feel free to point out your opinion or my errors.
Wow. They look just like real Tannoy Speakers:
Hope they are a little cheaper!
Regards: tf1
Hope they are a little cheaper!
Regards: tf1
I was wondering if you could just mount a motherboard in a set of large speakers. I have a set of speakers just laying around. That way you already have the speakers! Speakers are just a big box enclosure with a lot of dead air and few speakers in the front.
I have also thought that you could make a custom desk with a glass inlay top so you could put the motherboard under that so you can actually see it through the top of the desk.
If you do not like my post feel free to point out your opinion or my errors.
I have also thought that you could make a custom desk with a glass inlay top so you could put the motherboard under that so you can actually see it through the top of the desk.
If you do not like my post feel free to point out your opinion or my errors.
Speakers are just a big box enclosure with a lot of dead air and few speakers in the front."
Not quality speakers, there are actual formula's for proper spacing and porting of speakers for proper sound.
As for a complete plexi-glass enclosure, I wonder if there would be a problem with static from all that plastic? I know that some of the new case mods have a lot of clear plastic, but the panels are mounted to metal. About a month ago, I ran across a web site dedicated to wild case mods. They use the new micro-mini boards to build systems in everything (briefcases, ammo cases, etc.).
Not quality speakers, there are actual formula's for proper spacing and porting of speakers for proper sound.
As for a complete plexi-glass enclosure, I wonder if there would be a problem with static from all that plastic? I know that some of the new case mods have a lot of clear plastic, but the panels are mounted to metal. About a month ago, I ran across a web site dedicated to wild case mods. They use the new micro-mini boards to build systems in everything (briefcases, ammo cases, etc.).
There's also the 'big magnets' issue too...
If you wanted to build speaker boxes to house a PC too then you could calculate the required volume easily if you know the T/S parameters for your driver. I can recommend WinISD as a good application for calculating Bass Reflex, 4 and 6th order Band Pass enclosures. If you're after a horn then you're into a whole new ball game... ;-)
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