Wall faceplate height

[chiefred]

I am in California---I believe code for measuring and installing wall plates 13.5" to center from the floor. However. I have always tried to match electrical or existing faceplates already in the location. I dont think I have found more than three jobs that have had the same height.

What does everyone else do, follow code or line them up with existing plates?

Thanks

also does anyone have a recommendation for mud rings? I use the AT-90 brass rings as I think they are the simplist to use, but they are expensive--I will not use the cheap tin bend-able mud rings

 

[MarvO1]

Most contractors I've seen stand their hammer up from the floor, place the box on the top of the hammer, remove the hammer and nail in the box. I just don't know the hammer handle length they use.

MarvO said it

 

[bkrike]

We also use the Caddy Metal Cut-In Ring (ER-MPLS).
I have probably installed over 1000 of them. They work very well once you put the included screws in them. They won’t move, and the plate ends up flush against the wall.

As for the height, I always just match that of the electrical outlets.

 

[chiefred]

From the BICSI TDMM page 13-9
"NOTE: The minimum height for all electrical and communications systems receptacles on
walls (e.g., outlets and jacks) must be 380 mm (15 in) above finished floor."

So if I read this right--the lowest jack on the plate must not be lower than 15 inches from the floor, that means that center will be about 16.5-17" on the plate. Guess I will go by the code and disregard aestetics.

Thanks

 

[Bob3470]

Thats what they do out here on the west coast MarvO. Most of the hammer handles are different lengths. I usually try and get the contractor to get the electrician do it when hes putting on the electrical boxes and then they can blame him if there not rite

 

[Kaycek]

You're talking about the holes in the wall showing with the faceplate on, I don't know what they're called, but here in the Midwest, we have some sort of insullation that we put behind the faceplates to seal the holes so that we don't have the cool breeze flowing in when it's 30 below....

Kaycek
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Don't give up and Don't give in

 

[capitol31]

I've always installed the wallplates 16.5 off the finished floor. Mud rings(box eliminators), always have used metal

 

[chiefred]

Well--I guess there really isnt a common standard. Just many different interpretations.

 

[chiefred]

Here is another excerpt from the TDMM page 4.3 titled "Telecommunications Outlet Box Locations"

The work area telecommunications outlet box should be located near an electrical outlet (e.g., within 1 m [3 ft]) and installed at the same height if appropriate.

Maybe I am making a mountain out of a molehill. It doesn't seem important to anyone else. I thank all for their input


Regards

 

[Jtodd]

I've always tried to match the hight of outlets (whether power or telecom) around what I was installing. But again, the only 'requirement' that I've ever see was the ADA requirement, and the noted TDMM references, which actually seem slightly contridictory ("must be 15"AFF" vs. "should be...if appropriate", absolute vs. vague and relative).

Justin T. Clausen
Physical Layer Implementation
California State University, Monterey Bay

 

[Servamatic]

There is no code on wall plate height, if someone knows where to find one please enlighten me. That said, you may find a local code/regulation that describes such things.

Always follow existing heights if you want your installation to look professional. If you follow what the electrician did you can be pretty sure it is compliant with any local codes/regulations.

ADA requirements are for certain locations and/or particular equipment especially pay phones.
The Siemon Company product for height matching is the best I have found for retro-fit and new construction.

Richard S. Anderson, RCDD

http://www.servamatic.net

 

[youcandoit]

16" on center here in b-more, MD. or match it to whats existing.