I just swapped out an AMD slot A 500mhz CPU to an AMD slot A Thunderbird 700mhz CPU. I have a SOYO K7VIA 133 motherboard. According to SOYO's site, the CPU will work wiht the motherboard, and the bios info shows the change. But Windows 2000 will not run. Any ideas as to why? I can't even re-install Windows, the setup program also locks up.
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upgraded CPU, now W2k won't run 1
- Thread starter alexs0628
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1
- #2
Do you have the proper cooling on the CPU? Also, do you have any overclocking settings configured in the BIOS, left over from the old CPU? I ran into this issue the first (and only) time I tried to overclock my CPU, and setting everything back fixed it.
- Thread starter
- #3
I had the same problem after MB upgrade.
It's to do with the new hardware requiring different drivers which you can't install because you can't boot! (Catch 22).
I tried several suggestions I found on the internet but eventually had to reformat my Win2K partition and reinstall. Now works OK.
It seems to be a particular problem with Win2K - less so with WinXp.
It's to do with the new hardware requiring different drivers which you can't install because you can't boot! (Catch 22).
I tried several suggestions I found on the internet but eventually had to reformat my Win2K partition and reinstall. Now works OK.
It seems to be a particular problem with Win2K - less so with WinXp.
jrjuiliano
MIS
Had the same problem with Intel chips. Get more horses and can't install them.
What used to work with me for at least Win 98 was to uninstall any motherboard or chipset related drivers, and then upgrade the hardware. I don't know if that would work with Win 2k. I'll let you know when it's time for a new P4!
J.R.
What used to work with me for at least Win 98 was to uninstall any motherboard or chipset related drivers, and then upgrade the hardware. I don't know if that would work with Win 2k. I'll let you know when it's time for a new P4!
J.R.
I ran into the same problem following a recent m-board and chip replacement. The replacement was performed by my local pc shop, and resulted in a bsod and no way of rebooting into W2K. The proprietor later informed me that "This happens with all Windows 2000 pcs", although I can't atest to the truth of the statement.
In the end I had to reformat and reinstall my W2K partition and all applications.
HTH.
In the end I had to reformat and reinstall my W2K partition and all applications.
HTH.
I think alex is talking about a different problem. The problem the rest of you are talking about occurs because Windows 2000 uses a driver for the exact IDE chipset you have on your mb, and when you change the chipset, Windows won't start because it can't access the original drive controller. In MS articles, they say that jrjuliano's solution works for Win2K, although when I ran into the same issue myself, I did a repair of Windows (with minimum loss of my programs) and that worked too (but took a lot longer).
jrjuiliano
MIS
In "most" cases you can never get to the boot mode, because it BSOD's before it even shows the status bar to hit F8.
Kind of ironic that something so nice as architecture optimizatios can hurt you so bad!
J.R.
Kind of ironic that something so nice as architecture optimizatios can hurt you so bad!
J.R.
- Thread starter
- #13
I can't remember if I can boot to safe mode. I'll try that when I get home tonight. I tried to re-install the OS, but the Windows 2000 setup program won't run either. I get to the screen where it states "copying files to install Windows 2000" and it just sits there. I did check the CPU temp. It was at 107 degrees F, and that was in less then 10 minutes. Maybe a better fan will make a difference.
Yes, I think magpie is more along the lines of the problem. His statement about the CPU and the old cooling unit could have caused the problem. Especially if he has some paste residue left from the old cpu could most definitely be a potential problem for the new cpu. You may have to return your CPU and buy a Cooling unit that is appropiate for your cpu. Your new CPU may already be permanently damaged.
For the rest of you, You describe the problem windows2k has when you switch hardware without completely removing drivers for the previous hardware. If you can no longer run windows, or you have a inaccesible device BLUE SCREEN ERROR after changign hardware it is most likely causse windows did not dump the previous hardware drivers. Before switching the Hardware it is a good tip to use the device manager to uninstall all drivers connected to hardware change. When I say ALL i mean ALL! In the device manager there is a option to 'show hidden devices'. This will allow you to see more drivers installed onto your system. But still that is not ALL!
There is a command line option to enable ghosted devices that the device manager will never show drivers for.
To enable the veiwing of ghosted devices do the following:
Open a command prompt and type:
set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1
cd %SystemRoot%\System32
start devmgmt.msc
click on Hidden devices
For the rest of you, You describe the problem windows2k has when you switch hardware without completely removing drivers for the previous hardware. If you can no longer run windows, or you have a inaccesible device BLUE SCREEN ERROR after changign hardware it is most likely causse windows did not dump the previous hardware drivers. Before switching the Hardware it is a good tip to use the device manager to uninstall all drivers connected to hardware change. When I say ALL i mean ALL! In the device manager there is a option to 'show hidden devices'. This will allow you to see more drivers installed onto your system. But still that is not ALL!
There is a command line option to enable ghosted devices that the device manager will never show drivers for.
To enable the veiwing of ghosted devices do the following:
Open a command prompt and type:
set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1
cd %SystemRoot%\System32
start devmgmt.msc
click on Hidden devices
Policekauk
Technical User
Wildmagpie8,
How do I go about finding out what my CPU temperature is and weather I have enough cooling?
Thanks,
Will
How do I go about finding out what my CPU temperature is and weather I have enough cooling?
Thanks,
Will
If your motherboard is newer and of decent quality, the BIOS should have a section that will tell you the current CPU temperature. You should check this by soft-booting after the computer has been running for a while, to get the most accurate reading.
I don't know offhand what the maximum operating temperature is for any particular CPU, but if you have some basics in-place (and you don't overclock the processor), you should be fine.
Here's what I recommend for CPU cooling in pretty much any standard PC:
-Your cooling unit should be at least standard size (i.e. made or sold by the CPU's manufacturer for that CPU). You can also get one with bigger/more fins and a bigger and/or more powerful fan. Although I strongly recommend against overclocking your processor, if you actually DO it, you must have a better cooling unit than standard. Just make sure it will fit tightly on the CPU when installed.
-There must be heat sink grease (a special, usually white paste) between the CPU's contact point (a smooth flat surface on the CPU) and the cooling unit. There should be no bubbles in the grease. This is essential to ensure your CPU doesn't overheat. The grease both helps transfer heat from the CPU to the cooling unit, and helps hold the cooling unit in place on the CPU. If you unhook the clamps holding the cooling unit to the CPU and it is still stuck there, then you probably have heat sink grease in there.
-Any extra chassis fans you can add also help, but aren't completely necessary. Some cases and chassis cooling kits also include hoods that direct incoming air directly from one vent, through the CPU fan, and back out of the case. That's also helpful, but not 100% necessary.
Hope this answers your question.
I don't know offhand what the maximum operating temperature is for any particular CPU, but if you have some basics in-place (and you don't overclock the processor), you should be fine.
Here's what I recommend for CPU cooling in pretty much any standard PC:
-Your cooling unit should be at least standard size (i.e. made or sold by the CPU's manufacturer for that CPU). You can also get one with bigger/more fins and a bigger and/or more powerful fan. Although I strongly recommend against overclocking your processor, if you actually DO it, you must have a better cooling unit than standard. Just make sure it will fit tightly on the CPU when installed.
-There must be heat sink grease (a special, usually white paste) between the CPU's contact point (a smooth flat surface on the CPU) and the cooling unit. There should be no bubbles in the grease. This is essential to ensure your CPU doesn't overheat. The grease both helps transfer heat from the CPU to the cooling unit, and helps hold the cooling unit in place on the CPU. If you unhook the clamps holding the cooling unit to the CPU and it is still stuck there, then you probably have heat sink grease in there.
-Any extra chassis fans you can add also help, but aren't completely necessary. Some cases and chassis cooling kits also include hoods that direct incoming air directly from one vent, through the CPU fan, and back out of the case. That's also helpful, but not 100% necessary.
Hope this answers your question.
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