Power Source

[janetlyn]

I was reading a previous thread concerning loss of power source. Someone suggested before running off and buying a new power source to check the "fuse" and make sure it is working by holding in the power button for one minute and then checking the capacitor? All greek to me. Here is what happened. This is an old computer put together in pieces by a computer store. I turned it on this morning to repair some software. Someone came by and just shut it off. Now it won't even start. My boss checked the cord that plugs into the back of the computer and it is conducting electricity.

Any ideas of some things I can try to make it work before getting a new source? If you answer, please be detailed with your descriptions of what to do, how to do it, what it looks like, etc. I'm not stupid, but don't know much about hardware.

Thanks, Janet Lyn

 

[G0AOZ]

A few details on the computer wouldn't go amiss... Like, PSU type (AT, ATX), motherboard type, how many drives, HDD, FDD, etc., cards that are plugged into the mobo slots?

You say it "... won't even start." Do you mean the fans whir away but the screen shows nothing at all, or do you mean the whole jolly caboodle is totally silent when you try to power it on?

Many PSUs (AT & ATX) often have a fuse inside. Sometimes this fuse is soldered in, on others it's in a holder. I didn't see the previous post that you're referring to, but I hope the poster suitably marked it with a "skull & crossbones"! So unless you know what you're doing, I'd strongly suggest that you DO NOT touch the innards of a PSU - they can give you a very nasty belt even when switched off and disconnected. But maybe you're au fait with electronics...


ROGER - G0AOZ.

 

[edfair]

If you can find that thread please post where it is so it can be removed. Following the instructions you've described can be deadly dangerous on some power supplies that have exposed components with high potential.

All power supplies have some method of overcurrent protection, but replacing it generally leads to the next "blow".

If the power cord is conducting electricity I would suspect that either the P/S is good, or only one section is blown.

If AT, feel the hard drive and see if it is spinning. That is the first check for +12.

Ed Fair
Any advice I give is my best judgement based on my interpretation of the facts you supply. Help increase my knowledge by providing some feedback, good or bad, on any advice I have given.

 

[janetlyn]

The previous thread was I referred to did put in some caution verbage. The whole jolly caboodle is my problem. No lights, no whirs, no nothing. It's dead. Vitals are:

NO LAUGHING!!!

The motherboard (if it is the big board with all the sockets that hold the cards) has a gold box that has "440 LX" on it, and DTK is on the board itself. There is a DTK Power Supply Model PTP-3018. I don't know what "PSU", "HDD", nor "FDD" stands for. It runs about 350mhz, has a 7 gig hard drive, split partition, a floppy drive, a CD-Rom and a Creative Soundcard.

I looked everywhere inside trying to find something that had AT or ATX on it and could not find anything so don't know what you are asking for their.

Sorry to be so ignorant but do appreciate any help you can give me. Just remember, I'm short so don't talk over my head. LOL Janet Lyn

 

[edfair]

Sorry, but all I know is "geekspeak".
Gold box is probably the "BIOS" chip. Read only memory that activates on power-up to make the M/B (motherboard) work.
DTK is the M/B and PSU (power supply unit) manufacturer.
HDD is hard disk drive, FDD is floppy disk drive.

You will find a series of wires connecting coming out of the PSU going to the M/B. They connect to the M/B with one or 2 connectors. Probably 12 wires into two connectors plugged in so that all the wires are in a line. If so , you have AT style power supply. Or it can be a PC type power supply which uses the same type connectors.
If the PSU fan doesn't work when you turn the switch on (it exhausts air out the back) it is likely the PSU is in fact bad.
Matter of removing it and taking it with you to the computer shop to get a replacement. 4 screws in the back hold it in place and all the connectors must be unplugged from the M/B,HDD, and FDD.

If the power connector to the M/B is a large plastic block with 2 rows of wires of 10, you have an ATX power supply. It will latch to the M/B and have a release tab on the side.
But since I've not seen DTK with ATX I'll assume UFN that you have AT.


Ed Fair
Any advice I give is my best judgement based on my interpretation of the facts you supply. Help increase my knowledge by providing some feedback, good or bad, on any advice I have given.

 

[janetlyn]

Ed, Happen to know how much a PSU is? Thanks for the definition list. What an idiot. Of course, HDD and FDD. Duh! Sorry, sometimes my brain doesn't engage. I believe I have an ATX. A big circle of different colored wires come out of the PSU, they end up, one per slot, ten slots across, two rows of which the slots and rows are a white plastic thing plugged into the M/B. So, you may not have seen a DTK with ATX, but now you have heard of it. LOL. Ok, so is it AT or ATX? What is UFN? A fan does not come on when I push the power button; nothing happens. So, do I have to get another PSU? Appreciate the help, Janet Lyn

 

[Borca]

When you turn on the machine do you hear any beeps (one beep- system running fine) two long beeps is your physical memory. The fan is running than reseat the CPU chip.

 

[janetlyn]

Absolutely nothing, Nada, Zip, Zip, Zi, ZZZZ. Like I am not even pushing a button. Kaput, el nothing, broke, dead, incapacitated, that's all folks. Suggestions? JL

 

[Bobg1]

Besides the power swith on the front of the case there may also be a switch on the power supply, make sure it is on.
If this doesn't do it, check that all the cables inside are secure. I have seen where the cable from the case power switch came loose at the mother board just enough so the machine would not start.

 

[edfair]

Sorry, UFN=until further notice.
Yeah, sounds like your ATX has gone to PSU heaven. Usually under $50.00, but sometimes I buy a replacement case and power supply for the same amount to replace both to get around the propriatory designs that some manufacturers use.

Take the old P/S with you to be sure the device leads are long enough.

Ed Fair
Any advice I give is my best judgement based on my interpretation of the facts you supply. Help increase my knowledge by providing some feedback, good or bad, on any advice I have given.

 

[janetlyn]

Okay, thanks a bunch. I checked all the plugs as Bob suggested and no go. So, off the to the store I go. Thanks, JL