Plywood Mounting Pains... 5

[sirach]

We seem to have a constant problem mounting plywood backing in telecom rooms.

We have used a variety of anchoring schemes either in the drywall or into the metal studs, and we have yet to come up with a simple, reliable and easy way of doing this.

A building manager mentioned "glue and screw" but we weren't sure what adhesive would be best suited for this approach.

Does anyone know of any tricks of the trade, or preferable anchoring methods for fire rated plywood for telecom rooms?

Thanks.

 

[baltimore]

go to home depot and have a field day.........Ive used anchor's since day 1..........

1 1/2 inch dry wall anchors is all you need......

 

[sirach]

We also have used a variety of anchors, including threaded drywall type, toggle bolts, molly bolts, etc. However, when we mount a board that's 4' x 8' it can be a little tricky to get all the screw holes lined up and predrilled in the plywood, not to mention a measuring nightmare.

Most of the plywood backboards we install have telecom blocks and in most cases PBX's attached to them and we want to make sure it's solid and secure.

I thought their might be a quicker, but just as good that doesn't involve anchors but instead uses the metal studs and an adhesive to provide support and strength.

 

[ANFPS26]

We've installed them on concrete or concrete block walls using those self-tapping blue "tap-con" screws. They do well on masonary walls. We always used toggle bolts on drywall. You could use "Liquid Nails" construction adhesive to make it more secure.

Jim

 

[franklin97355]

Afriend of mine made a template out of quarter inch Masonite with the holes spaced out where the screws were to go. He then mounted this to the wall with two screws and marked all the holes. (6 inch on center vertical and stud spacing horizontal) He then took the template down and repeated the same to the plywood. After installing the anchors and finding the first two holes the rest was easy.

 

[TouchToneTommy]

You can also install a couple of screws under the bottom edge of the plywood, sticking out an inch or so, to act as a lip. Then lift the plywood up and set it on the screws to hold it in place while you drive in the screws that will hold it in place.

 

[daronwilson]

We use a variety of anchors, screws into the studs are my preferred method. We measure the wall and locate the studs, predrill the plywood and I usually countersink the holes so that the square drive stainless steel decking screws will sink into the plwood slightly leaving nothing above the surface.

Toggle bolts work great, though you need a considerable amount of them if you have much weight to support. When we use toggle bolts I replace the bolts with countersunk heads so that the bolt heads are below the level of the plywood.

In metal studs we usually double up on the pattern of screws, every 6" or so in the field since the studs are so flimsy. Also construction adhesive is a great idea, it's cheap and easy and once you screw the plywood down with adhesive behind it, it won't be going anywhere.

In concrete the screws work pretty good, we also use 'bang' anchors that require a 1/4" hole in the masonry.

Good Luck


It is only my opinion, based on my experience and education...I am always willing to learn, educate me!
Daron J. Wilson, RCDD
daron.wilson@lhmorris.com

 

[RandyVSP]

We always predrill the plywood, and use the blue "Tap-cons" in masonry, 2 inch drywall screws in wood studs....all spaced at 16 inch centers, or close as possible, then vertically ever 12 inches, seem to hold real well. The glue cant hurt....just not forgiving if you hang it crooked....level, whats a level????

Lucky enough we dont have the metal studs, I personally dont care for them.....

Also, we have used the OSB stuff lately, and once its painted, seems to work fine. Unpainted, it has alot of splinters! We used the 3/4 inch stuff.....cant get the front office to understand why plywwod is $25 a sheet....

Randy

 

[ANFPS26]

Here's a related thread that was interesting:

thread575-522243

Jim

 

[sirach]

I wanted to thank everyone for their help. You provided all the answers we needed and more. In my own search for answers, I came accross this interesting link about regarding anchors. Thanks again!

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inf/infanchor/infanchor.shtm

 

[jeffmoss26]

Does anyone use the EZ-Ancors? I saw them at Home Depot but didnt buy them. Are they a decent anchor?

jeff moss

 

[executone]

I use tap-coms for masonary and hilti toggle bolts for drywall with 2" drywall screws into the studs. I do not like to clue, because most customers are renting office space and do not want to cause to much damage to surface.

Good Luck!!

 

[DTSMAN]

I use the heck out of those EZ anchors. Four of those hold a small rack on the wall just fine. I only buy the ones rated at 50lbs. As long as I have them I dont bother with studs. But back to the top I would find studs for a large sheet of plywood.

 

[AvayaNovice]

Here's the easiest method that I use:

Get your plywood cut to size and ready to rock.

Mark a good screw pattern on the board (don't go overboard, but do a decent job).

I always use 2" drywall screws.

If you know for SURE that there aren't any studs whatsoever back there, then go ahead and predrill all of your screw markings through the plywood and into the drywall.

You can use those holes to mount your EZ anchors, I used the ones made by Dottie (don't use the junk screws they include though).

Second option is that if you know there might be a stud back there... use a screw in each hole and take it out if it hits drywall, once it hits wood mark that one. Then do the same deal and put in your EZ anchors.

The metal EZ anchors are reliable, hold up well. Remember that if you're mounting a switch or other hardware on a wall, that most of the weight is going to be distributed to the top of the board. The bottom of the board has pressure working to its advantage. I've NEVER seen a backboard fall off using EZ anchors. The more the better...