Hello again!
For the newsletter I'm designing, I have to use a pantone green. Which pantone colors should I use, coated, uncoated, matte, process coated, process uncoated...? I'm using non coated paper.
Thanks for your help!
CC
try pantone 354,
It doesn't really matter between coated and uncoated they are the same colour break down.
As a rule I always go with coated (no reason)
If you know if your stock is uncoated then use uncoated,
I don't ever use the other ones, Matte Process coated etc etc.
[/b]Make sure any colour made from outside sources, i.e Illustrator are labled the same name as what you are using in Quark[/b]
354? What part of Australia is this forest located? I have a PANTONE 327 forest near me in the USA. Calling colors 'forest green' is why the PANTONE system exists.
The reason why you use PANTONE color is because you cannot trust what you see on your RGB monitor. Because of this, you should not arbitrarily pick a PANTONE color based on what you see on screen. PANTONE produces swatch books so that you can pick out the right color from printed samples. If you do not have access to one of these books, consider talking to your printer and asking to see their swatch book.
- - picklefish - -
Why is everyone in this forum responding to me as picklefish?
picking a color from the quark PMS library does nothing. You still are viewing the color on screen!! Jimoblak hit the nail on the head. You need a swatch book. Buy one, borrow one, or look at one provided by the printer. It is the only way you are going to get what you expect. Asking someone out in La-La land what forest green is, is a matter of preference. The pine trees here in Virginia look like 3425.
Years ago one of our customers was complaining that the colours on the proofs we printed for him were way off. We thought they were pretty close & couldn't figure out what the problem was. It ended up that he didn't have a pantone book & had just been scrolling through the pantone colour palette until he saw the colours he wanted. When we showed him the numbers in the actual pantone book, it turned out that the brown, blue and green pantone swatches were actually about 3-4 shades lighter than what he had viewed on his monitor. His monitor had never been calibrated so what he saw definitely wasn't what he was going to get! Now he just picks the pantone number from the actual swatch book and ignores what he sees on the screen.
Most printers will let you look through their pantone books so that you set up the colours properly before giving them the job to print.
Yes, I always refer to my Pantone book, but if they don't have one and their screen is calabrated then they should get a close result.
which is why you should probably supply the printers with a colour printout of what you want it to look like so they can match the colours
You can't rely on clients or printers calibrating to a tight standard. A physical object, like a well-produced inkjet print, gives an objective reference, but requires that your color workflow be reasonably well set up. (And even that print is subject to variations based on lighting!)
I would have to chime in (and yes I've never posted here before but you have become my advisory committee) and say that if you can try to look at the most recent Pantone book you can find. Our marketing department was using an older book, and we had a newer one (I'm in labeling and packaging for a major medical device manufacturer.) It made a huge difference when they chose a Pantone yellow and expected this light canary yellow and instead it came out deep orangy mustard. Also, someone was designing an emergency contact card, intending to have the print come out red as it was coming out in FrameMaker, and it was actually a ruddy brown on the swatch palette. The lesson is is always always consult a swatch book if you want a real sense of the color.
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