New computer build starts , shuts down, starts , shutsdown... 2

[iconSYS1]

I'm swapping out motherboards, current system EVGA 680i motherboard, Q6600 rev. B3 CPU, Nvidia GTS250 graphics card , 4GB DDR2 Dominator ram. New System is Gigabyte GA-P43T-ES3G motherboard, 8 GB DDR3 ram, everything else is staying the same.

Upon moving all the components to the new mobo I went to start the system up and it starts and runs for about 2-3 seconds and then shuts down for 5 seconds, then comes back up for 2-3 seconds.. it will do this cycle until I pull the power cord (holding power button does nothing to shut it down)
I've systematically removed and replaced all the components and re-applied thermal paste to the CPU. Nothing has made a difference.
The only major difference I can see between the motherboard is that the old 680i motherboard had a 8 pin 12v plug (for CPU power) and the new P43 motherboard has a 4 pin 12v plug. If i completely leave the 12v plug out, the system will not restart, but obviously, nothing else will happen either.
The CPU and memory are listed on gigabyte's compatibility list for this motherboard.
Is there anywhere else I should look? I read somewhere else that certain motherboards need a "fan RPM signal" in order to start? My PC is watercooled. Please let me know if you have any ideas.

 

[FredWagner]

Perhaps at the point where the boot stops, it just ran the power supply past its ratings on one of the voltages. If you have a DMM, monitor each voltage during boot, see which one sags at the time it reboots. You may need a huskier power supply to handle the new motherboard.
You might also try starting it up with less RAM. If that works, it could also point to an overloaded power supply, or some of the new RAM might be bad.

Fred Wagner

 

[Freestone]

The two motherboards have different chipsets: the EVGA is nVIDIA and the Gigabyte is Intel. Your current installed operating system was tailored to the nVIDIA chipset and simply can't cope with the vast change to the Intel chipset.

Search the net for performing a repair install. If this procedure doesn't work you are looking at a fresh operating system install.

 

[goombawaho]

You have to determine whether it's even trying to boot. It could be either explanation listed above: hardware (power supply) issue OR the machine is blue-screening because of the hardware change.

Best way to determine - boot off some type of bootable CD. If it boots to that CD and stays running, then it's NOT a hardware problem. Work on the O.S. install/reinstall.

If it doesn't boot using the CD, focus on hardware.

 

[kjv1611]

I went to start the system up and it starts and runs for about 2-3 seconds and then shuts down for 5 seconds, then comes back up for 2-3 seconds.. it will do this cycle until I pull the power cord (holding power button does nothing to shut it down)

If that means what it sounds like, the OP is not talking about a blue screen or any other OS-related issue. You won't get to the OS in 2-3 seconds even with an SSD.

Your graphics card would be the biggest culprit in drawing too much from your PSU.

How old is your PSU, and what is it rated (wattage), AND what brand/model is it, if you know? If it's a cheapie generic/knock-off type PSU, then it's rating may not carry as much weight as a good one.

Also, if your PSU has much age on it - say more than a few years, then it's likely not as efficient any longer anyway.

Otherwise, as mentioned, could be RAM issues, but given that holding the power button won't shut it off, sounds more like a power supply issue.

To test the RAM, remove ALL but one stick, and see if it boots.... if it does, swap that one for another until you've tested all of them. If you find one or two bad in the batch, send back what you have to in order to get it replaced.

Once about a year ago, I guess it was, I had picked out a pretty nice system for someone, putting it together, and found out one stick of RAM was bad... had to send the set back, b/c it was a set of 2 sticks... still had the other to test with, thankfully, while waiting on the replacement RAM.

Another possibility would be CPU overheating if you didn't get the heatsink and fan mounted properly. If you're unsure of how to attach all that, see the heatsink and/or thermal paste manufactuer's included instructions (or website). I tend to refer to Artic Silver's website for instructions on how much paste to use. Besides that, some heatsink/fan combos are a little tricky to install - not all, but some are.

 

[Freestone]

The OP says it starts and runs for 2-3 seconds...depending on what "start and runs" means, 2 to 3 seconds is plenty of time for the OS to start to load and then restart due to hardware incompatibility issues without an OS splash screen ever showing. I've moved Acronis images amongst hardware without using its Universal Restore and have received these exact symptoms.

Rereading the post I can also read it as the system powers up then reboots after 2-3 seconds, which indeed is most likely too short of a period for the OS to boot.

It's a matter of interpretation. I guess we will need more input.

 

[iconSYS1]

OK, thanks for all the replies.

I went ahead and moved all the components back to the original motherboard and guess what, now I can only get that to come on for 2-3 seconds before it shuts down. On the original motherboard, it does NOT do the start up / shut down loop, it just shuts down after a couple seconds.

That was peculiar so I immediately suspected the power supply, went out and bought a new 750 watt power supply ( same as my original one ) Plugged that in, same problem. Changed out the memory, same problem, even with no memory, same problem. Changed out the CPU with a E8500 I had in another working computer, same issue. Changed out the video card with a low end HD4550 (low current draw) and I still have the same problem. So now I'm stumped. I have left the hard disks unplugged because I dont need a hard disk in order to get to the Bios screen, so this is NOT a software error. There are two components that have remained static, the water cooling system and the case. Completely unplugging the water cooling system doesnt change anything, so I'm thinking it may be a short in the case itself? The case is a Cooler Master Cosmos Case. I'm not even sure how I would test for this without buying a new case?

 

[kjv1611]

You could test by just laying out everything on a flat surface, and connecting as if it were in a case, and then short the 2 pints that are the power-on pins, and see if symptoms are same.

 

[kjv1611]

Just make sure, if you do that, that you don't damage the mobo of course.

The difference between the 2 boards, and how one constantly restarts and the other just does one time could be a BIOS setting (which you've not been able to access). There are power settings that deal with what to do after loss of power. If one is set to turn back on after power loss, that could explain it....

Another thought - are the 2 PSUs the same brand/model? Could there be an issue in that particular model that's affecting everything?

Definitely peculiar situation for sure.

 

[iconSYS1]

Thanks guys. The two PSUs are different brands, one is a silverstone, the new one is a thermaltake, both 750 watts.
Tonight i'm going to tear down the entire case and look for culprits and I'll also remove the case from the equation and see what happens. I have a grounding mat i'll lay all the components on to try and minimize the chance of frying it ... if it hasn't been fried already

 

[goombawaho]

You have certainly proven it's HARDWARE-related.

Geez - most people would have burned those motherboards in a fire after half the work you've done. If you were billing hourly, you'd be at $650 or so - enough to buy a new machine.

I'm joking above, but time IS money in some ways - not to mention the frustration that might turn your heart into gristle.

I would almost have to guess at this point that something (on the/in the case) is grounding the motherboards given EVERYTHING you have tried. I mean, what else could it be.

 

[iconSYS1]

I believe i figured it out

The gigabyte board is toast, i tried it without the case, just laying out on a antistatic mat with the power supply, shorted the power pins and still , started, then shut down cycle. Strange thing, I started looking at Newegg for a P55 board. Looking at the 1 egg reviews :

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=(keywords)&Page=1

You see alot of them with the exact same problem I was having.

I'm thinking its just a strange coincidence my original board is toast now too, i found what looks to be two blown capacitors on it. Anyways, I bought a Asus P55 Board, with a new i7 Processor and installed all my original components, and what do you know, it powers right up without issue. I'm RMA'ing the Gigabyte board and putting this behind me, thanks for all the help.

 

[kjv1611]

You ordering this stuff online this fast, or are you picking it up at a local store? Just curious, b/c it seems almost like as soon as you decide to buy it, you've got it.

Yeah, definitely doesn't sound too good for that Gigabyte board for sure.

 

[kjv1611]

Oh, and a star for the patience and fortitude in hanging in there 'till the job was done.

 

[iconSYS1]

Thanks kjv1611,
I do typically buy online @ newegg or amazon due to the selection and price, but when troubleshooting a mess like this I cant wait on the delivery times. So i picked up the parts locally. Luckily , I live very close to a fry's electronics and a microcenter. Selection of good motherboards isn't the best, but I needed my workhorse back! I had to take an open box processor which scared me a bit, but so far she's running strong and cold. Hindsite being 20/20 I should have just done the i7 upgrade in the first place.

 

[Freestone]

Good job iconSYS1 and a star from me too! I am curious to know though if your OS install from the nVIDIA board booted up okay in the Intel chipset environment?