monitor goes blank after memory upgrade 2

[JTILL]

My system: Home built/self assembled
OS Win XP - sp3 32bit
Motherboard: PcChips A13g+ (3.0)
CPU: AMD Athlon 3500(tm) 64 Processor
2.21 FHz, 960 MB of Ram
Power supply: 450W (don't remember brand name).
Originally: 1GB Crucial. CT12864AA667.8FE
Graphics: Nvidia GForce 6100nForce 405 256MB (on Board)
Original Sound Device Realtek
Sound card: Creative Ensoniq Audio PCI (ES1371,ES1373) (WDM) (add on)
Monitor: Acer X223w 22".
#1 Seagate 500Gb Sata
#2 Seagate 500Gb Sata
#3 Iomega External 500GB(?)
1 - Sony DVD RW DRU-840A drive
1 - Toshiba ODD-DVD SD-R5272 drive
1 - Plusdeck 2c cassette player/recorder
1 - Floppy drive

Memory update Attempts
#1: Crucial - 2ea. x 2GB BLS2G2D80EBSS00.16FH (Causes problem with monitor)
#2: Kingston 2ea. x 1GB DDR2 PC5300 667MHZ(Causes problem with monitor)

monitor goes blank after memory upgrade

I recently purchased 2 - 2GB sticks for use in my pc. these were recommended as compatible by your scanning program (crucial memory). When I put

both in I lost my monitor, it went blank screen with 'no signal' message. When I turn off/on monitor I still get "no signal" message. I took out both stick

sand put one in the one good bank, but still the same. what am i missing?

I tried each stick separately in the bank that I know works. Neither worked, I still lost my monitor (no signal). I put the original back in and returned to

normal.
This also happened using 2 Kingston 1GB DDR2 PC5300 667MHZ that did the same thing. Which I still have laying around.
Bios update suggested by Crucial Chat Person.
I am hessitant in trying to update bios. Everything I read says not to if things are working. Things are working.

My M/B is supposed to be capable of 16GB ram. I am only trying to max out 4GB, max for Win xp-sp3 (32bit)

Any Ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

PS. I don't think memeory is bad, either pair, and not looking to replace them.
PSS. I have yellow sign in device manager "Audio Device on High Definition Audio Bus". Code 28 Drivers not installed.
Cannot find proper drivers for it.
I bypassed by installing sound card that works. See above.

 

[goombawaho]

Agreed with above. If PC tries to boot and blue screens, check the "SATA Mode". Settings are often SATA, IDE, RAID. SATA may be AHCI. You don't need RAID, so change it from one to the other if it doesn't boot.

 

[cdogg]

I didn't originally suggest checking the AHCI setting for SATA in the BIOS, because a blue screen wasn't reported. But it's still a good point. If you're seeing a blue screen when Windows tries to boot, report back with the error message and definitely follow rclarke's advice about checking that setting. In most cases, the BIOS will have AHCI turned on by default if it supports it. You would want to change this to IDE mode if you're getting the stop error 0x0000007B.

Sounds like you're not to that point yet, though. Be sure to disconnect all other SATA devices such as your DVD drives leaving only the hard drive attached to the interface until we get Windows running again. That goes for USB and other external devices as well. Only keep your mouse, keyboard, and monitor attached for now. Here are a few more things to try:

1. I noticed in the motherboard manual that there are two options for resetting the BIOS to its default settings. Once is called "Load Fail-Safe Defaults" and the other "Load Optimized Defaults". Which one did you use before? Try the other one.

2. Under Advanced Chipset Features -> DRAM Configuration, make sure the Timing Mode is set to Automatic

3. Did you set the hard drive as the "First Boot Device" in the BIOS? It's been mentioned before, but I didn't see a response saying you did that.

 

[JTILL]

No matter what I do only this works with same screen everytime.
"One other thing-I used jumper on MB to clear cmos. When I booted it came up with this boot screen message.
"CMOS checksum error - Defaults Loaded
Warning! Now System is in Safe Mode.
Please re-setting CPU Frequency in the cmos setup".

I tried boot disk from 'LangaList web site made years ago' and with this disk when I press F1 to continue booting I get to
"Select OS to use, seems to be a Languagew choice to boot into. Strange! English is not present in choices. About 10 choices.
Press F8 for troubleshooting. Then goes to choice of how you want to boot windows. I tried "last known good config. Goes back to language choice and back to how do I want to boot windows. Its just a repeating loop.

After this I have to Clear MB cmos to get back to bios. Bios will not accept any changes I make, boot priority or anything else. I now realize if I have to clear cmos everytime to boot it can't accept the changes I want.

The cpu & memory have always been set to auto. Sata is set to enable all. There are 101 settings for cpu frequency, are you suggesting I try each one? Since I never adjusted any of those setings, ever, they are I can only think are still at default.
All since original install and most recent reinstall.

This endless loop is getting old. I suspect drive with windows istalled may be dead. I cannot feel it hum as I can with second drive.

At this point I'm thinking take out 1st drive replace with good drive, instal windows and use that to see if 1st drive is any good. Does this sound reasonable?

All this hinges on if bios will see disk in drive. Does this sound like a plan or what?

 

[cdogg]

Bios will not accept any changes I make, boot priority or anything else.

This is your number one issue right now. We need to figure out why. Until this is resolved, don't make any assumptions about your hard drive or bother reloading Windows. Go into your BIOS setup and change ONLY the boot priority, save/exit, and go immediately back into the BIOS setup. I'm having a hard time understanding why a simple change like this wouldn't stick.

 

[JTILL]

When I try to boot I get only blank, black screen with no error messages whatsoever. I get no blue screen or errors messages at anytime.

 

[JTILL]

Go into your BIOS setup and change ONLY the boot priority, save/exit, and go immediately back into the BIOS setup. I'm having a hard time understanding why a simple change like this wouldn't stick.

I cannot say why6, only that I have to clear cmos everytime just to get to boot screen.
And, of course, nothing is saved. Untill I repeat that sequence it will not boot, period.

 

[goombawaho]

Tell you what. Pull out the memory (all of it) and try starting the computer. See if you get any beep codes. Note them. IF the motherboard doesn't give you the "I don't have any memory" beep code, the board is fried.

It's looking more and more like that since it just won't behave. I would tell you that as a last step, I (personally) would take the mobo out of the case and set it on a non-conductive surface (with the minimum items connected for boot) just to see that nothing is shorting the board. If it still won't behave out of the case, then the board is toast, I believe.

If you're not comfortable taking the board out, you may have to give up on it.

 

[Freestone]

No one has mentioned it, and the age of the motherboard seems like it may make it a candidate, so I will suggest it.

JTILL, examine your motherboard for bad capacitors. If you don't know what they look like, go here for just some examples. There are plenty of images to be found on the web:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

 

[JTILL]

No boot code beep with or without memory. I'm not sure if it ever did beep after post. I usually turn it on and leave the room.

I have removed everything but HDD and still have to clear cmos to get boot screen. It will not accept any changes I make.

As Bill Cosby was fond of saying "I brought you into this world, I can take you out".
Will try pulling the board and checking it as suggested if not sat eve sun for sure.

I have a question as I'm expecting the worst.
What might be recommended as to new relatively inexpensive way to go. Board to match my memory modules or send them back to crucial and get newer board and new memory?

 

[JTILL]

Is there any possible reason to pull the fan, cpu and try resetting them?

 

[goombawaho]

Is there any possible reason to pull the fan, cpu and try resetting them?

Maybe just to make you feel like you tried everything. I think you meant RESEAT vs. reset.

It's going to be tough to find a NEW motherboard that runs that socket 939 processor and uses your DDR2 memory. I did a search and nothing at Newgg, TigerDirect, etc. You're going to have to think about finding a board with the right specs and looking for it on Ebay or some place like Ascendtech.us which sells new OLD stock. I've used them before, but they only show 4 939 boards, but they don't take DDR2.

It seems most boards I see for that processor use DDR instead of DDR2. I think it's time to move on vs. buying a $50 - $100 dollar old technology motherboard to get it to fit your old processor/memory.

 

[EmuDan]

JTill, have you tried replacing the 3V button cell battery on the motherboard? Some boards warn you when the battery voltage is too low, but others don't. It's worth a shot.

Dan

When in doubt, just keep upgrading! LOL

 

[goombawaho]

Just check it with a voltmeter if you have one. I doubt this is the issue, but it's a quick and free test. I've seen them working without a problem down to 2.5V or so (on PCs that I recycle, I always test the battery).

 

[cdogg]

It is doubtful that the battery is the issue. As long as AC power remains connected, the battery is not relied upon. If it was the problem, then the symptoms would/should be different. The BIOS would be resetting itself at each reboot instead of having to force a reset through the jumper.

This also alarms me:

I did see and repair a broken power wire to the sata drives

How did that happen? Could there be other physical damage inside the case that could lead to the source of the issues?


I'm beginning to agree with goom on this one - all signs point to a board issue at this point.

 

[goombawaho]

I'm beginning to agree with goom on this one...

The worst part of your week. But seriously, other than take the board out of the case and see how it behaves with a NEW or borrowed power supply just for added surety, I don't see what else it can be other than a dead mobo.

Is there any possible reason to pull the fan, cpu and try resetting them?

If you did this, clean off the thermal compound and apply new, but I think this is beating a dead mobo.

 

[JTILL]

Goom
I agree I think the MoBo dead. I guess we can consider this closed or should I report back what I do next? Like a rebuild.

If this request needs to be moved to another forum, okay.

I want to thank everybody for their help.

It seems that since I put this kit together things have changed a lot.
The pci slots & cards I have been using have been replaced. which is best now?
Memory has changed quite a bit also.
What to do?
This setup I had was okay for the most part. I would like a little more speed.
I would like to put together a relatively modest performing system. I don't do gaming of any sort. Just things like youtube on occaision, other types of visual, audio and music programs, I don't know where to start. So I don't think I need a super system.
Can anybody suggest a system and what is needed for one along this outline?
all ideas appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 

[goombawaho]

Take a look at this thread for a new computer build. It's quite recent. If you're wanting to do anything else or ask a new question, start a new thread.

http://www.tek-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=1693808