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LAN Cabling (Cat5,Cat6) 1
- Thread starter rsatech
- Start date
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1
- #2
Alexbrown012
Technical User
- Sep 11, 2013
- 5
Yeah i'm also agree with the statement of jim.
jrgood0852
Technical User
I'd be tempted to use shielded as it has the extra protection for the conductors.
I would only use shielded category cable if it was necessary, because of the higher cost for the cable and the jack hardware needed for a proper installation. If you use shielded cable you need shielded jacks also, and to go all the way -- shielded patch cords too!
....JIM....
....JIM....
jrgood0852
Technical User
I'm with you, wires. I was just thinking of a more robust cable for the hot glue. Thanks.
I suppose if you want a rugged jacket, then use the outdoor weatherized category rated cable. The jacket can withstand more abuse and UV, etc. I agree with wires also, shielded category cabling requires much more care and attention to make sure grounding and bonding practices are adhered. Otherwise, things could be worse if, the person does not understand what they are doing...
....JIM....
....JIM....
misseditbythatmuch
Technical User
I am not clear where you plan to glue the cable, but ....
As for outside plant cable run inside, there are NEC rules about that (even in non-plenum spaces) that limit how far you can run it from the point of indoor/outdoor transition. If entirely indoors, you should check with the local inspection authority to see how strict they are on that. I know of several jurisdictions that are very strict on rules and will not allow any outside plant cable to be run from point-to-point indoors unless it is in rigid conduit all the way.
Also, for example, in my area this class of wiring must be run inside a fire rated wall cavity, hung from J-hooks, run through conduit, or be run on approved wire racking / bundling structures. These rules vary from place to place, but if your gluing method is to hold the wiring in a similar weight-bearing manner (as opposed to gluing cable to close off a cabinet penetration to vermin proof or dust proof it), you would do well to check with the inspection authority to see if what you plan is large enough in scope that they would flag it.
Just my 2 cents.
As for outside plant cable run inside, there are NEC rules about that (even in non-plenum spaces) that limit how far you can run it from the point of indoor/outdoor transition. If entirely indoors, you should check with the local inspection authority to see how strict they are on that. I know of several jurisdictions that are very strict on rules and will not allow any outside plant cable to be run from point-to-point indoors unless it is in rigid conduit all the way.
Also, for example, in my area this class of wiring must be run inside a fire rated wall cavity, hung from J-hooks, run through conduit, or be run on approved wire racking / bundling structures. These rules vary from place to place, but if your gluing method is to hold the wiring in a similar weight-bearing manner (as opposed to gluing cable to close off a cabinet penetration to vermin proof or dust proof it), you would do well to check with the inspection authority to see if what you plan is large enough in scope that they would flag it.
Just my 2 cents.
randybear28
MIS
I would also like to know what the hot glue gun is for. The only use I could think of is for sealing the gaps between the connector and the cable for moisture resistance. I guess it would work, but the normal way would be to use heat shrink tubing with it's own adhesive, 3M™ Adhesive-Lined Tubing EPS300-3/4-Black-48"or silicone rubber self-fusing tape.
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