is my cd rom dead?

[scroce]

My cd rom will not open by itself. When I click the open button, it just whirrs once, and then whirrs again at a higher pitch and slightly louder - the light just blinks. The only way to get media in or out is to use a paper clip on the little pinhole than manually ejects the CD.

On top of that, the device fails every time I try to select the drive in MyComputer (running windows 98)

Are there any remedies I can do in attempt to fix it before I go out and buy a new one? I've already taken the cover off of the box and checked the connections, everything looks ok there, but i don't know what to expect if i should attempt to take it apart.

Also, if I do need to buy a new one, i'm sure it's not as easy as just snapping it in - is there a FAQ sheet anywhere about new CD rom installation?

many thanks.

SC Q: Why is my computer doing that?
A: Random Perversity of Inanimate
Objects

 

[SQLScholar]

Err... i am no expert on hardware but at a guess it sounds pritty much dead - but please dont buy one just because of me.

Personally i would recommend not bothering to take it apart due to cdroms having lasers and just the slighest knock will definantly stop it from reading discs.

Anyways CDROMS are next to nothing anyway.. at

http://www.dabs.co.uk

you can buy a new 52x CDROM for £17.03 plus delivery.

And to install all you generally have to do is the following

1) open case
2) unplug old one (make note of what lead went where)
3) unscrew old drive
4) take out drive
5) do the reverse with the new one (make sure you push leads in tightly - most of which wont go in upside down but make notes of which way up just in case).

If there is any CD software it recommends to install you might want to do that, apart from that it is that simple!

HTH

Dan

 

[SQLScholar]

ooooo.... just remembered.

There might be jumpers on the back of each CD-ROM somewhere on the CDROM it should say what these mean. When transfering over the 2 CDROMS make sure that the settings for your new one match the old one!!

I.E if old one is set up a slave (via jumpers) then make sure the new one is set up to same

HTH

Dan

P.S if there is anything else i have forgotten please can some one add it on

 

[jimioz]

This is a simple one. You both have it right. Buy a new one and put it in just where the old one was. But try it first before you install any software that came with it. Most of the time it will work fine.

I find it strange that CD drives come with the drivers on a CD ROM, don't you?

Anyway, back up your system before doing any of this, because in the 1 in 100 chance that the new CD ROM doesn't take, you may have to re-install your os to get it to go...

Again, though 99.9% of the time you just swap them and all is well.

 

[inamyln]

All responses sound good so far, but before you go out and buy one make sure that the cd rom will open when it has not booted completely to windows. Example; reboot the computer and during the POST part of the boot manually push the open button on the cd rom. If it opens then it might not be a harware problem.

 

[scroce]

thanks for all your posts....

the door does open during POST, but only with the manual open button - the electronic button doesn't function at all.

If most cd roms are compatible and many times do not need extra drivers, then I guess I'll try swapping out a cd rom from another working pc? Q: Why is my computer doing that?
A: Random Perversity of Inanimate
Objects

 

[Grenage]

Aye you will have no problems, CD is the easiest thing to fix. Remove old one, making note whether its Primary or Slave and choose the same setting on the new one. Plug it all back in (the red line on the IDE cable is pin 1 and is always pointing to the power connector on it) The yellow cables on the power connector are also pointing to the right.

If your using windows you wont need drivers so it will just be a case of plug and play

 

[SQLScholar]

Plug and prey more like

LOL!

 

[scroce]

how do you know whether or not something is master or slave? - and what does that mean

thanks Q: Why is my computer doing that?
A: Random Perversity of Inanimate
Objects

 

[Grenage]

lol aye

Primary/Master Secondary/Slave. Basically position 1 and 2.
Generally you have 2 IDE channels/cables and each of those will have a primary and secondary on it. You primary is what is looked at first.

On the back of the CDROM will usually have 3 pin setting like:

M S C
: : :

The jumper goes on one of the pairs (Master, Secondary & Cable Select) although they wont always be in that order. If its not on the back its usually on a sticker on the top or such. On the uber rare occasions where there are no markings then hey, you can only get it wrong twice - no damage done

 

[SQLScholar]

It should cause you too much trouble. Its just a case of looking on the ordinal at the back what pins are bridged with a jumper. Find the lable telling you what it means.

Find the lable on the new one, find out how to give it the same settings and then connect the jumpers in the correct place.

HTH

Dan

 

[SQLScholar]

that should be oringinal not ordinal

 

[ceh4702]

Usually there is a motor attached to a gear that turns and meshes with some teeth on the drive bay caddy and pushes the little tray out. It might be something simple like a little micro switch that is not being pushed down. or maybe the tray is out of alignment or the motor just went bad. Usually for $30.00 or so you can buy a new CDROM.

You might want to try a different brand. Some CDROMS like being on an IDE cable with other CDROMS and some have trouble with this. Asus makes a very good CDROM with a really smooth working tray, but it doesnt get along well with a second CDROM or CDr/w or DVD on the same IDE cable.

It could be possible to have a bad IDE cable or that the cable you are using is damaged or so long you are losing signals. Most likely it is just a worn out CDROM Drive. They are not all created equal. Look for a good Warranty and keep the receipt. If your computer had an extended warranty contact the retailer or manufacturer and get a replacement for free. Many retailers include a 2 or 3 years parts and labor deal for around $23-$35 extra. It can be worth it. We have an insurance policy on our equipment here. If you do not like my post feel free to point out your opinion or my errors.