NetworkGuy101
IS-IT--Management
Anbody user ethernet over powerline yet? Any comments?
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Ethernet Over Powerline?
- Thread starter NetworkGuy101
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I use it all the time. It is idiot proof.
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- #3
NetworkGuy101
IS-IT--Management
Cool. You know the faster chips should be out this year right?
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NetworkGuy101
IS-IT--Management
At the latest CES they displayed You cable TV running over your powerlines. Speeds of 80 Mbps and 100 Mbps
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NetworkGuy101
IS-IT--Management
What do you need. I work for the company th develops the technology.
Was hot for this technology but have had disappointing results. At some locations, connection is erratic with disconnects every few days or even hours until reset by plugging/unplugging, etc. I have tried three or four brands at one location but none have been reliable. Other locations seem to have better luck. These devices may share some of the same issues encountered with X10 type devices such as needing to be on the same side of the transformer. Capacitive bridge devices are available to help in this situation. I haven't checked the troubled locations for this condition yet but I'm trying to find out if X10 type solutions/troubleshooting tools might be relevant for powerline networking as well. To sum up-if it's for your house, try it. If it's for a client, make sure they're close by so it's a quick trip over to fiddle with it.
There are a lot of factors, but the general rule:
. 200 meters should pose no issue
. Between 200 meters and 400 meters should be tested.
According to the HomePlug Powerline Alliance, powerline networks have a range of 1,000 feet of power cable-much better than the direct-line working range of Wi-Fi 802.11b and 802.11a's 150 feet. However, electric cabling tends to wind around nooks and crannies of the architecture, so bear in mind that 1,000 feet of cable will be much less than 1,000 feet of direct distance between power outlets.
. 200 meters should pose no issue
. Between 200 meters and 400 meters should be tested.
According to the HomePlug Powerline Alliance, powerline networks have a range of 1,000 feet of power cable-much better than the direct-line working range of Wi-Fi 802.11b and 802.11a's 150 feet. However, electric cabling tends to wind around nooks and crannies of the architecture, so bear in mind that 1,000 feet of cable will be much less than 1,000 feet of direct distance between power outlets.
Bcastner, Can you offer an explanation of why the D-link may offer better performance than the recently mentioned Linksys PLEBR10 (one of the brands that I have tried)? Although I’ve searched a few times, I can’t find any explanations of how vendors might differentiate themselves while implementing the homeplug standard. Perhaps the chipsets are different?
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NetworkGuy101
IS-IT--Management
The devices do utilize the same chip. There are now newer versions of the chip out. Variations could be done in several ways though. The power adapters work on low amps so if you were experiencing poor performance in some areas and better than others this could also be caused by poor grounding. Behind the power panel in your home you should be able to see where there are wires connected to a bunch of screws. I wouldnt go messing around with them but this is usally where loose wires occur and cause unreliable conditions for homeplug. Simply tightening the screws to the usually WHITE wires may improve performance. Also try not to plug the device into extension cords. It can seriously degrade perfomance also. The best place is right into the outlet.
Hi Network guy,
I really appreciate that after pointing to a possible problem in a high voltage circuit, you issue a warning to stay out of the electrical panel. As an electrician, my blood occasionally boils as I read through forums where someone is happily teaching another person how to electrocute himself. All homeplug devices I’ve seen are two wire devices which means they are not directly connected to the green safety ground. The white wires in the panel are the return wires for any given circuit. They are connected to ground at the service entrance. Per your observation, I have seen (and tightened) many a white wire. The “hot” wire can also need tightening at the circuit breaker and this is where you REALLY don’t want to go. I agree that loose wires could cause a problem by having the effect of increased resistance. I think you may be slightly confused as to extension cords. An extension cord by itself would add little resistance to the circuit (however, if the plug or receptacle end were loose from wear or sloppy manufacture then it could have the same effect as loose wires). I believe you are referring the fact surge suppression circuitry can absorb and greatly weaken the homeplug signal. So, it is stated that homeplug devices need to be plugged directly into an outlet-not a surge suppressor. An extension cord in good condition would meet this requirement. When troubleshooting, I like to measure things. That is why I mentioned earlier that I’m searching for test equipment to help measure signal strength (and quality if possible).
I really appreciate that after pointing to a possible problem in a high voltage circuit, you issue a warning to stay out of the electrical panel. As an electrician, my blood occasionally boils as I read through forums where someone is happily teaching another person how to electrocute himself. All homeplug devices I’ve seen are two wire devices which means they are not directly connected to the green safety ground. The white wires in the panel are the return wires for any given circuit. They are connected to ground at the service entrance. Per your observation, I have seen (and tightened) many a white wire. The “hot” wire can also need tightening at the circuit breaker and this is where you REALLY don’t want to go. I agree that loose wires could cause a problem by having the effect of increased resistance. I think you may be slightly confused as to extension cords. An extension cord by itself would add little resistance to the circuit (however, if the plug or receptacle end were loose from wear or sloppy manufacture then it could have the same effect as loose wires). I believe you are referring the fact surge suppression circuitry can absorb and greatly weaken the homeplug signal. So, it is stated that homeplug devices need to be plugged directly into an outlet-not a surge suppressor. An extension cord in good condition would meet this requirement. When troubleshooting, I like to measure things. That is why I mentioned earlier that I’m searching for test equipment to help measure signal strength (and quality if possible).
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- #17
NetworkGuy101
IS-IT--Management
Well not extensions cords but power strips. My Bad. Most power strips use line conditioning. If the Power strip is not homeplug compliant you may have issues and by no means am I a "Power Guy". Your right a signal strength meter would be great.
It’s kind of ironic. After all the yakking about surge protection for computer equipment we now have to search for an “unprotected” outlet for homeplug. This did cause an issue at my last installation as I crawled around under the furniture past all the surge protected plug strips looking for a plain outlet.
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