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CPU temp - Athlon 1400mhz...

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tempo21

Technical User
Nov 18, 2001
166
GB
Hey

Wot is a good temperature for an athlon 1.4ghz (266) to be running at???

I have not overclocked any part of my system (see below) but i know that the heatsink feels VERY hot after a couple of hours use. Perhaps i could invest in a new CPU fan but do i really neeed to ?? I also have a program called smart guardina which claims to act as a system monitor. It tells me that the CPU is around 150F ?? can this be right ???



i run:
ATHLON "C" 1400mhz 266 fsb
SoltekSL75-DRV4
256@2100 DDR
geforce2MX400 64meg
akasa icicle765 cpu fan
2YS-tech 80mm case fans
350W psu T3/\/\p()
tek-tips UK branch!
_________________
t3mpo@europe.com
 
TOO HOT !
Too darn hot. I set up Athlons all the time, and the XP 1800+ version,,,,,,, (not overclocking, except maybe by 3%), and after running them HARD, using 3DMardk 2000 for a couple of hours I check the temp.
I get from F 98.5% - about 112% F.

Good fans (noisy, but they work hard) and extra case fans.

I'm a little surprised your computer isn't locking up on you at that high of a temperature.

*********** ALSO: I don't always trust just one test.
It it says TOO HIGH, like that, and you have all the hardware that you have, then maybe it is reading wrong.
** However, new fans are CHEAP,,,,,
I buy good high performance fans at for about $9 - $12 for Athlons,,,,,,, and $12 - $15 for the higher end Athlon XP's.
You just have to put up with NOISE when you buy a 7000 RPM FAN. Check the decible ratings,,,,,,,,,
 
One night my chip fan went out and I was desperate to play some new game, and of course, necessity is the mother of invention. I happening to have the right materials to make a simple water cooling system. It worked flawlessly for years, until it was no longer needed. I've been wanting to write this out, so I'll take this opportunity to do so.

*Instructions for a water cooling system for PC chips*

Materials: several inches of thin copper tubing, several feet of plastic tubing, cable ties, tub caulk, an aquarium or small fountain pump, a bucket with a lid, and possibly some tubing fittings.

1. Take the fan and heat sink off and separate them.

2. Bend the fins on the sink to create two parallel V-shaped channels that are wide enough to allow copper tubing to be inserted. The tubing must sit flush with or below the height of the unbent fins.

3. Make a U-shaped piece of copper tubing that fits into the two channels with about 1-2 inches of tubing extending away from the sink.

4. Attach 2-3 feet of plastic tubing to the ends of the copper U. To be safe, I suggest using cable ties AND tub caulk. Smear some caulk on the copper tubing before you slide on the plastic. Attach a cable tie, then seal with more caulk. To be honest, I only used caulk, but obviously the last thing you want is a leak. Also, officially, I recommend heat resistant plastic tubing, but in my experience, the heat sink never exceeds luke warm.

5. Now lay the copper U in place and reattach the fan and sink to the chip, which will hold the copper tubing in place. Ideally, the tubing will be pressed tightly against the sink. If the tubing is not tight, insert some heat-resistant material between the tubing and the fan. I used a small piece of flattened tubing for this purpose. You may wish to bend the ends of the copper U to accomodate nearby hardware.

6. Remove a free drive bay door and run the plastic tubes outside of the case. To prevent strain on the copper to plastic tubing connection, I used ties to secure the plastic tubes to the case near where they exit.

7. Attach one of the free plastic tubes to the pump output. Here you may need some tubing fittings. I used duct tape. You don't necessarily need a tight seal, because the flow rate required is low. In fact you may want to create a vent there to allow some of the pump output to escape, so the pump doesn't have to work against the high resistance of the narrow tubing.

8. Cut a notch out of the edge of the bucket lid to accomodate the tubing.

9. Fill your bucket (as small as 2 quarts) with water and a little bit of bleach to keep the water from getting funky.

10. Insert pump and drain tube, and close the lid.

 
the temperature i gave came from this smart guardian program i mentioned and i cannot be sure it is an accurate measure of the cpu. i have had no system locks even after 5 hours running.

i am looking at a coolermaster heat pipe? will this be a good move? i understand copper sinks offer better performance. T3/\/\p()
tek-tips UK branch!
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t3mpo@europe.com
 
Djohns66, that sounds funky! That would work great until it sprung a leak. I'd hate to think I had water leaking inside my computer! "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing....." [morning]
 
tempo21

You say:

"am looking at a coolermaster heat pipe? will this be a good move? i understand copper sinks offer better performance."

Cooler master fans have been very dependable for me, for years, and AMD uses them on their Retail versions of their CPU,s so that in itself is an excellent endorsement.

COPPER BASE: Well,,,,,,, bells & whistles. I have used them, sometimes, but it doesn't really matter, if you have multiple case fans, and a good CPU FAN / HEATSINK combo.

And !!!!! * Get some THERMAL GREASE, when you order the fan. SOME, I SAY SOME FANS, come with the grease. Find out,.........
Clean that rubber junk off the base of a new fan, clean it good, and then use a very thin layer of Thermal grease on the CPU & base of Fan.

 
I have had the Acasa icicle 765 on my 200fsb Athlon 1.2 and although it is a reasonable standard heatsink/fan I think you are pushing it to the limit with your 1400 266fsb Athlon.
Go into the bios and check the temp with your onboard sensor, a 1.4 with reasonable case cooling shouldn't be idling any higher than 45C and have an absolute max no higher than 55C, and these figures can be improved upon given a better heatsink/fan combination.
I recommend the new Acasa Silver Mountain II (silver plated solid copper heatsink) with a Delta 38cfm fan, retail around $40/£32 Martin Just trying to help, sometimes falling short, I am only human after all.
 
Some systems report hotter than others, especially Asus motherboards. The XP processors actually run cooler than the Athlons. I have an Athlon 1200 overclocked on an Asus A7A board that runs about 120F.
 
The temperature you get must be quite normal I guess for Athlon 1.4 though it can't be very accurate since it doesnt have a thermal diode i think. However it is a core problem since in the XP and MP processors the temperature is signifficantly lower. If you want to see what happens when you remove the fan go to and see the 1.4 reaching 370 Celsious!!!
 
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