CPU PROBLEM! TOO MUCH THERMAL PASTE GENERATE CONFLICTS! 2

[Fred69]

I have an athlon xp 3000+ cpu.

I noticed this morning that applying too much "silver" thermal paste on the "die" could create a major problem. If the paste touches some chips elsewhere on the CPU, it creates a short circuit. Sliver paste has one of the highest conductivity. Before buying this silver paste, I never had this problem because I was using normal "white" paste.

Now my computer doesn't boot! Some time I see the boot screen, but it immediately freeze.

Now I've cleaned most of the paste with alcohol; I used alcohol everywhere on the cpu. But when I use alcohol, it creates some small silver particles and it is very difficult to remove all of them. The problem is still there. I think that a very very small chip has some paste between its "legs" (I hope you know what i mean).

Can i use a needle?
I though I could soak the CPU in alcohol and shake it a bit to remove particles. Is it a good idea?
I use isopropyl alcohol 75% and cue tips.

I speak french usually. hope you understand

 

[edfair]

You might try to find a board cleaner that is used primarily to clean rosin from a soldering application. It has a cleaner but is pressurized to blow loosened particles away.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[BadBigBen]

For one I would use an Alcohol concentration of 96% or above... the reason is the residuals that are left behind...

also WD40 has known to work wonders... I've used it to clean a Monitor, Car CD Player, two MoBo's and all work still today...


Ben

"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."

 

[franklin97355]

Don't use a needle, use a toothpick or a sharpened matchstick. After you get it clean go to the artic silver site and read their application instructions.

The answer has always been 42

 

[micker377]

An old toothbrush dipped in alcohol. Then blow it out with "clean air".

 

[Fred69]

WD40?? It does not damage the cpu? After cleaning, will I need to clean again with alcohol to remove oil?

 

[Fred69]

I found 2 acetone based products at home. These are nail polish removers.

One's ingredients are: acetone, water, glycerine, frangance, vitamin e, blue.

The second product is a non-drying formula - instant results- high speed action: acetone, water, ethyl acetate, triacetin¸, benzophenone-1, isopropyl, myristate, frangrance, yellow.

Which one would you choose? I think the first one is better since the second one seems to be a blend of 3 dissolvers.

 

[Fred69]

But, one border of the DIE has no "glue", I mean I'm afraid too much oil or alcohol could enter this way in the die. Is it possible? I don't see any hole, but this particular edge is sharp, not covered by the normal "glue" we find on most cpu. The 3 other sides or edge are almost all covered.

 

[LawnBoy]

Trust me, that die is hermetically sealed. You stand zero chance of damaging the die from washing it (the factory washed it before packaging). You can damage the pins, though, so be careful with your scrubbing.

Acetone by itself is a great solvent, but both of the products you mention have contaminants that will leave some residue. Stay well away from any kind of non-drying formula, you definitely want the solvent to dry out.

 

[paparazi]

Here are the proper application instructions for this product, see the amount recommended! less than the volume of a grain of rice, a tiny amount!

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

But also note* that the most common cause of socket "A" CPU damage is fitting the heatsink/cooler 180degrees OUT!

The recess in the base of the heatsink MUST be positioned so it is located OVER the RAISED cam box on the CPU socket.
Users can EASILY fit the heatsink the wrong way around, it doesn't look odd at all, so don't dismiss this suggestion, look carefully at how you have been fitting the unit.
If you have fitted this even once the wrong way, then you have probably permenantly damaged it.
Sorry for the possible bad news.
Martin



We like members to GIVE and not just TAKE.
Participate and help others.

 

[firewolfrl]

First WD40 is a BAD BAD BAD idea. Don't use any oil based products.

As Fred69 nail polish remover works fine. so does straight acetone.

Go to the Artic Silver web site and look up the cleaner if you need to.

I repaired a computer that the customer coated the whole CPU top and the whole heatsink instead of just the die area. It took a half a can of acetone and some old rags and an air compressor to blow the silver. An old toothbrush worked fine with nail polish remover. But, with the amount of paste I had to use acetone and the tooth brush melted. Laquer thinner somewhat works but I would not use it on a CPU.

good luck

 

[BadBigBen]

1.) ACETONE disolves Plastics... and can disolve the laquered finish on a mobo, or other electronic component... in case you have forgotten, Nail Polish Remover is made for exact that purpose...

2.) WD40 is a Water Displacer and yes it does leave an oily film which can be washed with ALCOHOL thereafter, but its CLEANING properties are great, the side benefit of it is that it also stops corrosion... and I have used it many times with no adverse effect...

3.) You choose which way you wanna clean your CPU, we are just pointing things out what we use...


Ben

"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."

 

[paparazi]

Dito:
Acetone bad idea, melts plastic and disolves laquer BAD!

WD40 may not be ideal but at least it won't damage anything, yes oil based but oil in an insulator so it is relatively harmless.

The proper stuff! akasa TIM-Clean:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/akticpuhecl.html

We have been using this for over a year now, I cannot recommed it enough! it is simply brilliant!

Martin

We like members to GIVE and not just TAKE.
Participate and help others.

 

[Fred69]

Ok I removed all the stuff with a special spray for electronic components. I know it will sound risky but the full name is a "brake and electrical contact kleen" from kleen-flo. But it is safe since it is non conductive and I tested it on another athlon CPU which is working now. It works great and dry quickly, no residuals.

But I think the actual CPU has burn the first time I used it, trying to boot it with too much thermal paste surrounding the die. This was before I understood my mistake.

And now that it's all clean but still not working, I think it's too late, my cpu is gone in another world.

The first time i used it (with too much paste) there was no screen. Second test it freezed at the bios screen with video and ram test(i think) but i didn't see the cpu model. Third test it booted further than that, i was just before the first windows logo (before kernel loading). Then it rebooted by itself and freezed again no screen like the first time. I think I burned the CPU at this stage.

I've heard that an athlon xp has a diode inside it preventing burning. it is true?

 

[firewolfrl]

I don't think your problem was cleaning the cpu paste. I think you loaded to much paste and heat from poor transfer to the heatsink did the CPU in. Seconds is all it takes to destroy the CPU. I played with a bunch of motherboards and CPU's not to long ago where we pulled the fans off of running boards. it was funny and somewhat dangerous. some of the boards the CPU exploded. gotta love companies going bankrupt. Had to drill holes through the harddrives too.


It's time to buy a new CPU and fan

 

[BadBigBen]

@Paparazi - thanks for pointing that Solvent out... sounds darn good...


Ben

"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."

 

[LawnBoy]

1.) ACETONE disolves Plastics... and can disolve the laquered finish on a mobo, or other electronic component...

Good lord no, you don't want to clean it while it's still plugged into the M/B! I should have said that, but the thought never occured to me.

 

[Fred69]

Yes badbigben is a bit wrong, because on the artic silver site they recommend acetone... it's just important to have it in its purest form, the less ingredients the less residuals.. And not a blend of solvents, only acetone with water, fragrance, colour etc.. And you need to clean it with alcohol, it's recommended.

" Thermal pads can be scraped off with a plastic tool that will not scratch the bottom then the remnants can be removed with a xylene based cleaner, (Goof Off and some carburetor cleaners) acetone, mineral spirits, or high-purity isopropyl alcohol. "

http://www.articsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

 

[BadBigBen]

@ Fred69 - thanks for pointing that one out, about what the website mentioned, I stand a bit corrected... though I did mention that after the WD40 you should use ALC to clean the residue...

@ LawnBoy - you did not have to point that one out to me... sorry if I was a bit unclear, but I was trying to say that, what you pointed out, shouldn't be done... I have seen a few PC's that some people tried to clean with many different types of cleaners (water, oil based etc.) and then wondered why it did not work anymore...


Ben

"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."

 

[LawnBoy]

Ben,
Yeah, I figured you knew better. The comment was for posterity, I didn't want a novice to be confused.