Connecting Front Case Connectors To Motherboard 1

[24Peaches]

I have the ECS G31T-M motherboard. I can't get the board to boot. I would like to know what's the correct pins to connect the following case wires to:

USB1 USB2
Data+1 Data+2
Data-1 Data-2
VCC1 VCC2
GND1 GND2

Front Panel Audio
gnd mic-in
L-out R-in
R-out gnd
mic-in L-in

 

[ceh4702]

Read the Manual(I always say this):

http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Do...ual&DetailDesc=&CategoryID=1&MenuID=6&LanID=0

F_PANEL1 Connector has the Power switch connector.

2 4 6 8 10
1 3 5 7 9

Pin 5 + 7 is Reset
Pin 6 + 8 is Main Power

F_PANEL1 is located in the bottom right corner.

Just go to the ECS website and look for motherboard model and select downloads and download the manual.

If you do not like my post feel free to point out your opinion or my errors.

 

[edfair]

Rather than worry about where they all connect at this point leave everything disconnected and short the power-up pair with a screwdriver blade to verify that the board will come up. Once that works you add the switch and verify it. Then reset and verify. Then the others.

Most motherboards used to be shipped with the CMOS/CMOSRESET set to reset which keeps the board from working. Suspect that is still the standard. You may want to check that.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[wahnula]

As usual, Ed's on the right track. Get the board to boot, then worry about the remaining connectors. Make sure you have made all the correct power connections to the mainboard and videocard; I've seen boards requiring a Molex (standard power connector), 4-pin, 6-pin or 8-pin power connection to the MB before it will boot. Likewise without 4-pin, 6-pin, or 8-pin connections to the GFX card the system may not boot. Make sure your PSU is up to the task.

As a last resort remove the board from the case and connect only the PSU, CPU & 1 stick of RAM. Short across the "PWR" pins...does it work now?

Tony

Users helping Users...

 

[paparazi]

24Peaches
I haven't even looked at your boards USB pin out wiring but there are generally only several ways and your example isn't close to any.
The common one is;

USB1 USB2
VCC1 VCC2
Data-1 Data-2
Data+1 Data+2
GND1 GND2

http://www.usbman.com/Guides/BelkinMotherboard_cable_assembly.htm

Example A is the common way (90% of motherboards)

As a side note* often if you get this wrong the result can be a burn't out USB controller.
Please check your manual******

Martin


On wings like angels whispers sweet
my heart it feels a broken beat
Touched soul and hurt lay wounded deep
Brown eyes are lost afar and sleep

 

[tlcscousin]

http://www.ecs.com.tw/ECSWebSite/Do...ual&DetailDesc=&CategoryID=1&MenuID=6&LanID=0

The manual for the G31T-M

 

[tlcscousin]

Ah should have noticed ceh4702 had already posted the link to the manual.

 

[paparazi]

24Peaches Just had a quick look at the manual and if you are still unclear then I can confirm you have the most common USB pin out as I indicated earlier.
Be very careful as USB carries a live feed and is easily damaged by incorrect orientation.
Two rows...left to right starting with VCC 1&2 on the left.
Obviously keeping all the 1's and all the 2's in seperate rows.


USB1 USB2
VCC1 VCC2
Data-1 Data-2
Data+1 Data+2
GND1 GND2

It's all there in the manual, just take your time.
Martin




On wings like angels whispers sweet
my heart it feels a broken beat
Touched soul and hurt lay wounded deep
Brown eyes are lost afar and sleep

 

[24Peaches]

I can't get this board to boot at all. Therefore, I disconnected the case connectors and tried booting the board (no activity). I'm using a 20pin psu with the additional 4 pin plugged to the left of cpu. Next option would probably be to try purchase a 24 pin power supply.

 

[BadBigBen]

[qoute]I'm using a 20pin psu with the additional 4 pin plugged to the left of cpu.[/quote]old style ATX powersupply... Didn't you ever wonder what the extra 4 pins on the mainboard connector where for?

Next option would probably be to try purchase a 24 pin power supply.

That is a definite YES, as the older P4 PSU will not WORK with that mainboard...

Ben

"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."

 

[tlcscousin]

The board will run with a 20 pin power supply (according to the manual but they also say it needs a 300Watt power supply in the 20 pin configuration) with a fully configured board.If you are doing a minimum configuration (no hard drives or IDE drives connected).
If you have not tried yet disconnect all just leave motherboard cpu and fan and one stick of ram and see if it will post.

 

[BadBigBen]

thanx tlcscousin, for correcting my faux-pas about the 20pin PSU, I read the wrong manual...

but I still recommend the change to a 24pin PSU...


Ben

"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."

 

[tlcscousin]

I definately would look at a 24 pin power supply as well.Underpowered power supplies cause to much grief down the road.
I just put together a PC yesterday and no boot as well and after a lot of troubleshooting changed the Video card and it booted right away. Strange because the video card was a new Nvidia 8400 swapped it with another card from a different machine (ATI) and it fired right up and the other machine fired up immediately with the Nvidia card.I had reseated the card 3 times including using the other PCI express slot.

 

[24Peaches]

BadBigBen....I did connect the power supply to additional 4 pins to the left o the cpu as I stated in an earlier post. after doing so there was still no activity to the board. The manual states that the board may not boot using the 20 pin power supply + the additional 4 pin. Now i'm going to purchase a 24 pin power supply. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[BadBigBen]

24peaches - that is where the 4pin P4 connector goes to, even with the 24pin powersupply... and do keep us posted... PS: the quip about the extra 4pins (20pin + 4pin) was made with the notion that that board needed the 24pin package...

tlcscousin - had a similar problem but reversed, after I switched out the nVidia 8800GTS with an ATI HD4870, my mainboard would not power up correctly... switched out my 700w PSU with a 1100w and it booted right up, in the meantime I have replaced that 1100w PSU with an 650w psu and it still is kicking... sometimes mainboards are really finicky about what is installed...


Ben

"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."

 

[24Peaches]

I installed a new power supply and the board booted up fine. Now I can continue connecting the audio and Front panel. Thanks for all your help..

 

[BadBigBen]

Glad to hear that a new PSU solved the problem...

Ben

"If it works don't fix it! If it doesn't use a sledgehammer..."