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Computer cleanup after a fire 3

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Xemus

MIS
Jul 10, 2002
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Hey all,
Got a computer that just went through a fire. The inside is covered in smoke residue. Supposedly, the firemen pulled it out first thing, so it may not be toast. I cleaned the harddrive and have restored it already (data is fine).
My question: What's the best thing to use to clean the other components (video card, motherboard, NIC, etc..) The case is smoked enough to not worry about, and the machine is a P3 anyway, so it was time for an upgrade, but I'd like to clean up what I can.

 
From an electronics supply house "chemtronics formula 111" if it is still available.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.
 
Xemus

I used to work for a fire restoration company and what you describe is exactly what my brother does for a living. He uses a diluted mixture of citrus cleaner and smoke deodouriser in a spray bottle - sprays it on, agitates it with a soft paintbrush, then rinses it off under the tap (believe it or not).

Drying can be a problem - he has suggested compressed air or a hairdryer on a low heat. Obviously if moisture is present for too long there is a risk of corrosion.

I have tried this with several components that he has supplied me with following fires and most of them work perfectly.

Two things that you might know but should remember. Smoke residue contains a lot of carbon and can conduct electricity - potential for damage if circuit was active at the time of the fire or if residue remains on power up. Also many types of smoke residue are corrosive so the sooner you clean up the less likely that damage will occur.

Citrus cleaner should do the job, but if the smoke residue has a lot of grease in it you may have to add some kitchen degreaser to your solution.

Hope this helps

Chris
 
Thanks, I'll look into that.
But running water over a video card? Seriously? I know you can put keyboards in a dishwasher if you let them dry out long enough afterwards, but...

 
I've actually used a pressure sprayer (set on low) to clean really crudded up computers. You have nothing to lose! The secret is making sure it is dry before using.
 
They ended up just writing it off on insurance due to the system age and the amount of work it would have taken to get it back to normal. Thanks tho.

 
Hi there, let me throw in my two cents worth, I use the venerable WD-40 out of a spraycan... in itself it is non conductive, but removes corrosion of all sorts, and is a top notch degreaser... agitation with a softbrissled brush is a must, in order to get the real tough crud off...

I've used this to clean TV's, Car CD players and one computer (an old P1 for a friend)...

Ben
 
Don't need to... it leaves a small film of protection against future corrosion... the CD player that my mom had spilled Detergent into, and wasn't working, is still kicking today 3yrs after I cleaned it with WD-40...

but if too much, you just use paper towels to get the excess off...

Ben

PS - if I remember correctly, WD-40 was developed for NASA to use on the SpaceShuttle, to preserve and clean the ceramic tiles... and as a moisture (H2O) displacer...
 
In the motor trade (down at your main dealer, as I dought your average back street garrage would use it due to cost) they use canned brake cleaner, this is a clear solvent that is used for desolving and removing brake dust in brake maintenance.
It comes in a compressed can with powerful spay nozel and is designed to blast away the brake dust built up.
I think this would be ideal for your needs.
They book out a can of this stuff everytime the technician carries out a brake service (so it isn't particularly expensive)
I have used a brand called WURTHE (german brand) with good results but would say,if you get a differant brand check on a old circuit board first.
Use as others have described, with a brush to loosen, then blast away with the spray, it completely evaporates "dry" and leaves no residue and to my knowlege doesn't effect the laquered PCB surface.
Martin

Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
 
Brake-kleen is a bad idea. Spray it into a throw away plastic cup and see what happens to the cup. It's meant for metal parts, like brakes. Any kind of paint or plastic it comes in contact with will dissolve. For something like smoke damage with residue I'd use an electronics spray cleaner and scrub it in, rinse under tap, then dry with air. I've pulled components from standing water that were fully submerged, let dry for a few days then used with absolutely no problem.
 
ImpetusEra
Why? have you ever actually sprayed brake clean into a plastic container? funny how they always come with a plastic lid isn't it? and of course this stuff very often gets sprayed onto vehicle paintwork by accident without any problems.
I'm not saying that as a solvent that it doesn't effect some kinds of plastics but clearly only certain types.
This stuff is also very good at getting grease marks out of vehicle upholstery (also synthetic fabrics)
Basically thats why I said do a tester beforehand, or don't you believe that I have actually used it on PCB?
If it does work then it seems far more sensible than water and possible oxidation.
Martin

Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
 
I just don't think that's the right application for that solvent. It's purpose is to dissolve greases from brake rotors and stuff. I think a less harsh solvent is more suited for electronic components, when does a glob of axle grease get on a PCB anyway?
 
Hi norty303, thanx for the info, overhere in Europe (Germany) the "WD" don't make sense... I've learned something new...

Basically, any solvent that wont cause a chemical reaction with plastic, metal, and laquer will do... so no ACETONE (found in NailPolish remover), or really agressive solvents like "DotMatrix" cleaner (I have a can of this stuff, good for removing The PASTE off of HS)...

Ben
 
Been working on electronics for a long time and one thing that I use all the time is M.G.Chemicals Safety Clean.
Stuff is completely electronic freindly and leaves no residue
 
I thought I should mention WD-40 has an adhesive agent that can attract dust. I don't even use it to oil locks anymore as they would get gummed up over time.

D
 
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