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Cable TV Law Question
- Thread starter perrymans
- Start date
Guest_imported
New member
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
You'd also need to check out the Wireless Telegraphy Act (U.K.) or the F.C.C. (U.S.) regulations regarding the use of a transmitter.
ROGER - GØAOZ.
ROGER - GØAOZ.
- Thread starter
- #4
Found what I wanted. FCC Title 47 Section 76.802 through ___ discuss customer access to wiring and ownership rights. If anyones U.S. cable company messes with you like they did with me (accussed me of stealing cable because I was splitting my signal to more than one TV), then throw this at them.
Thanks. Sean.
Thanks. Sean.
MasterRacker
Active member
No wonder we were all confused. Splitting a cable signal is totally different from rebroadcasting. Once you are inside the house, you can put in amplifiers, splitters, etc. until you have 10 TVs in every room if you want.
Jeff
I haven't lost my mind - I know it's backed up on tape somewhere ....
Jeff
I haven't lost my mind - I know it's backed up on tape somewhere ....
the only thing that the catv company can give you a hard time with, is if you use a modulator or an amplifier, and you send more than 20 db BACK upstream to the CATV tap side. this will unbalance their system. if you read the whole FCC doc, it will tell you that. other than that, anything you put on the line, once it hits your house, is legal, as long as conforms to the FCC standards & specs.
I have had customers use twist on connectors, which bleed the RF signal, and the CATV company come out and disconnected the customer installed twist on drops, when they complained about a poor picture. the best rule to go by is, if the methods & materials you use meet or surpass what the CATV provider uses. Hope this helps.
I have had customers use twist on connectors, which bleed the RF signal, and the CATV company come out and disconnected the customer installed twist on drops, when they complained about a poor picture. the best rule to go by is, if the methods & materials you use meet or surpass what the CATV provider uses. Hope this helps.
I'd check the connectors, especially if it's store-bought. I worked for Time Warner for a couple years before I got into IT, and 300' was our limit, but I've seen em work longer than that with just a slight grain. Store-bought cables are usually junk in my opinion. You also have to figure in how far your service drop is, how many TVs your trying to run, etc. 300' is tap to TV. Matt Wray
CCNA, MCP
mwray77518@yahoo.com
CCNA, MCP
mwray77518@yahoo.com
What do you mean by "gold plated"? RG-6 has a rubber sleeve holding braided foil around a solid foil around an insulator with a copper center-conductor. It is normally marked on the outside of the jacket. Why don't you have your cable provider check it out, you pay for them to give you good service. Matt Wray
CCNA, MCP
mwray77518@yahoo.com
CCNA, MCP
mwray77518@yahoo.com
Guest_imported
New member
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
not sure, but in similar light i heard that 'data' cable service can be broadcast beyond home boundaries via wireless, and there are posted urls with the 'key code' so neighbors can jump on-board the service. so far the federal law says it is not illegal, as long as no one accepts payment.
Hi,
I'm the process of installing a cable modem and have to redo some cabling to incorporate this and I would like some info. I know for sure I'll be using RG6 cabling but I was reading on this site and someone mentionned to make sure that the coax was "Quad" something... should be used so that it can support DSS eventually... Well I found a RG6 cable from RCA with both ends terminated (saves me the hassle) and it does have a DSS picture on it but doesn't mention any specs... The cable costs 10$ for 50 feet (staff prince) and it has a ground wire attached to it on the outside. Am I getting a good deal/quality ratio ? Or I can also buy bulk RG6 cables, in this case I need to terminate the ends myself. Either way, I will be installing wall plates, should I solder the cable to the connector or crimp the end of the cable with the proper male connector and attach the cable to a female-female adaptor screwed into the wall plate if I buy my cable unterminated ? Since I'm going to wire the coax, I might as well put in some cat5e cabling. I would like to know what is the recommended distance between the cable and a fuse box. I'm doing all these wirings in my home, in the utility room. I have 4 250amp fuse boxes and the expected path for the cat5e cable will be around 6 inches, from one of the boxes, is this too close ?
And one last thing, my cable provider is Videotron in Montreal and here's an extract of their policy :
<quote>
Only one television or FM receiver may be connected to each outlet installed by Vidéotron. No outlet or additional connection shall be installed by anyone other than Vidéotron, without prior authorization from Vidéotron. Any breach of the provisions of this article may constitute a criminal offence.
<end quote>
Does any know of any laws in Canada saying otherwise ? I'm going to check the CRTC website later on...
thanks
anthony
I'm the process of installing a cable modem and have to redo some cabling to incorporate this and I would like some info. I know for sure I'll be using RG6 cabling but I was reading on this site and someone mentionned to make sure that the coax was "Quad" something... should be used so that it can support DSS eventually... Well I found a RG6 cable from RCA with both ends terminated (saves me the hassle) and it does have a DSS picture on it but doesn't mention any specs... The cable costs 10$ for 50 feet (staff prince) and it has a ground wire attached to it on the outside. Am I getting a good deal/quality ratio ? Or I can also buy bulk RG6 cables, in this case I need to terminate the ends myself. Either way, I will be installing wall plates, should I solder the cable to the connector or crimp the end of the cable with the proper male connector and attach the cable to a female-female adaptor screwed into the wall plate if I buy my cable unterminated ? Since I'm going to wire the coax, I might as well put in some cat5e cabling. I would like to know what is the recommended distance between the cable and a fuse box. I'm doing all these wirings in my home, in the utility room. I have 4 250amp fuse boxes and the expected path for the cat5e cable will be around 6 inches, from one of the boxes, is this too close ?
And one last thing, my cable provider is Videotron in Montreal and here's an extract of their policy :
<quote>
Only one television or FM receiver may be connected to each outlet installed by Vidéotron. No outlet or additional connection shall be installed by anyone other than Vidéotron, without prior authorization from Vidéotron. Any breach of the provisions of this article may constitute a criminal offence.
<end quote>
Does any know of any laws in Canada saying otherwise ? I'm going to check the CRTC website later on...
thanks
anthony
daronwilson
Vendor
Regarding RG-6 cabling, you are considering Quad Shielded coax. The Quad shielding simply means there are two foil shields and two braided aluminum shields (usually). Now there is some debate regarding the usefullness of this. Personally I think that the Quad shielding is overkill, however, it is recommend by lots of sales folks and I get asked to install it by homeowners who have bought into this program. More commonly available will be Dual Shield which has a foil shield and a braided aluminum shield. Either cable will do fine for you, and if you are really concerned I would check to see what frequency the cable has been 'swept' to. Older cables (and splitters) were not designed for the higher frequencies being used in cable systems today. Make sure you components are all capable of operating to at least 1000 MHz or 1 GHz.
I sell RG6 quad shield for something like 16 cents a foot, and dual shield for 9 cents a foot just for a price comparison. The type you described is commonly called figure eight cable and is designed for either the aerial drop to the house from the pole (with the ground wire as a support strand) or from the satelite receiver to the dish where the ground wire provides dish grounding.
You should use good quality connectors, if I had a dollar for every twist on "F" fitting that I had to cut off and replace to clean up a signal.....well I could pay someone to write this for me. Use a good crimp on connector at each point, and a female 'barrel' fitting (bulkhead fitting) on the wall plate.
As for distances from electrical sources, the farther the better. Will 6" away from a fuse box cause you problems? My guess is probably not if the box is metal and you only run this for a limited distance. Were it me (and it often is) I would place your terminations in the utility room in a metal enclosure (available from Leviton, OnQ, Ortronics, and a number of home networking companies) and extend a metallic conduit from the box into the attic or crawl space until you are past the electrical sources. Of course, ground the box properly and ground the devices as well (splitters, ampliers, etc).
Good Luck It is only my opinion, based on my experience and education...I am always willing to learn, educate me!
Daron J. Wilson, RCDD
daron.wilson@lhmorris.com
I sell RG6 quad shield for something like 16 cents a foot, and dual shield for 9 cents a foot just for a price comparison. The type you described is commonly called figure eight cable and is designed for either the aerial drop to the house from the pole (with the ground wire as a support strand) or from the satelite receiver to the dish where the ground wire provides dish grounding.
You should use good quality connectors, if I had a dollar for every twist on "F" fitting that I had to cut off and replace to clean up a signal.....well I could pay someone to write this for me. Use a good crimp on connector at each point, and a female 'barrel' fitting (bulkhead fitting) on the wall plate.
As for distances from electrical sources, the farther the better. Will 6" away from a fuse box cause you problems? My guess is probably not if the box is metal and you only run this for a limited distance. Were it me (and it often is) I would place your terminations in the utility room in a metal enclosure (available from Leviton, OnQ, Ortronics, and a number of home networking companies) and extend a metallic conduit from the box into the attic or crawl space until you are past the electrical sources. Of course, ground the box properly and ground the devices as well (splitters, ampliers, etc).
Good Luck It is only my opinion, based on my experience and education...I am always willing to learn, educate me!
Daron J. Wilson, RCDD
daron.wilson@lhmorris.com
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