Blown PSU worth component level repair?

[goligoshbishbashbosh]

I have a HP D530 ultraslim pc which (here in the UK) runs on 240v. One of the kids helpfully switched the PSU to 115v and switch it on, and guess what, ever since its not worked!
HP want £63 for a replacement PSU but surely I could get component level repair for much less, is it worth it? Or would it have caused more damage to the mainboard etc..?

 

[felixc]

The failure mode of these power supplies is not the same from model to model, thus no real way to know if the rest of your PC got damaged. HP won't tell you. All they want is to sell you another PC. If you're lucky there were crowbars at the 5-volt outputs of your PSU and your motherboard is safe. Maybe not what was on the 12 volts, like the hard disk.

I would not try to repair the PSU. The parts that haven't blown up may have weakened. It is not worth taking the risk. Get a new one.

 

[franklin97355]

If you are talking about repairing the power supply over replacing it it's a toss up, go with what you can afford. As to the rest of the computer, it does not matter what you do with the power supply if it's broken it will still be broken.

 

[edfair]

I would suspect that it took out the input circuits only. Possibly just the fuse.
Might be worth looking inside to see if it splattered the capacitors.
I would probably try a repair. But I'm into S&M anyhow and this would be another feel good situation.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[SkipCox]

good gawd ed, that's the best response I've seen.

I do agree though...I'll replace capacators or a fuse but going much further is an exercise in S&M. Simple soldering of components is one thing; knowing for sure what failed is entirely another.

I'd replace the psu and start from square one.

Skip

http://skipcox.net

 

[G0AOZ]

On previous occasions I've found it's often either the fuse or the main high voltage switching semiconductors which blow out. It can sometime be fun finding the correct replacement transistors...

A note of caution probably wouldn't go amiss here... PSUs, even damaged ones, can hold a lethal electrical charge even after switch-off and disconnection. Bleed to earth the high voltage points at capacitors before attempting to work on the circuitry.

ROGER - G0AOZ.

 

[BrucesXP]

I'm with SkipCox on this one.

As already suggested Do check the fuse in the mains plug and any accessible in the case /PSU heeding the warnings about high voltages and UNPLUGGING IT however dead it looks and if possible leaving it overnight first!!!!

As an electronics engineer you might think I'd advise you how to fault find it and get spare bits. From an economic and practical point of view I throw all suspect PC PSU's out ON SIGHT (even when HP are charging you double the standard ATX price). My reason is that my £50 PSU will be connected to hundreds of pounds of memory, video cards, processor etc and is one of the few components in a PC actually capable of taking a lot of other stuff with it, including data! when it goes pop in a haywire(fortunately rare), or crash inducing (anything but rare) manner vs benign manner(does happen- but not to me).

If the fuses didn't protect as the designers would have hoped they would it my vote is get a new PSU and rest easily at night .

 

[edfair]

Roger understates the difficulties of finding switching components although there are generics available. I would look to the fuse, input passing capacitor, rectifier(s) and filter capacitors. Beyond that, it would be history.
And yes, they do store a punch. And it can be a real surprise. I speak from experience and a bad memory of a Xerox 820 that got me several days after it was shut down. Had defective switching circuits so it stored the high voltage.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[tf1]

The HP PSU should have the original manufacturer's identity label on its case. It should be easy to find an identical replacement. Unless you have a special case (such as one of the SFF or USDT cases, the PSU is probably a standard ATX device. If it is a standard ATX, just replace it with any decent ATX PSU or equivalent or higher wattage

If not, search the Internet from Google for the part number on the PSU and I'll bet you'll get many hits.


Regards: tf1