When I tried to power up my new Athlon xp 2700 build the Asus A7N8X deluxe motherboard refused to POST. the green light was on and the cpu and case fans were running, I got the same after removing the mother board from the case and disconnecting everything apart from the cpu, speaker and power switch leads.
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Asus A7N8X deluxe will not POST 3
- Thread starter allan1556
- Start date
franklin97355
Technical User
No beeps or other indications? bad memory, bad CPU, bad MOBO. One of the above.
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3
- #3
Breadboard with:
CPU heatsink/fan
1 stick of memory
Graphics card (hook up monitor)
Finally power supply
Clear cmos
Leave any jumpers at default position (think this board is all soft menu adjustable.
Start PC by bridging PSW (power switch) with a small flatblade screwdriver (momentarily)
Reset by to "fail safe" or default settings.
First guess is always memory followed by poor seating of graphics card and power socket
Next would be power supply (yes it is possible for it to be faulty despite the obvious power to the fans)
Martin
Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
CPU heatsink/fan
1 stick of memory
Graphics card (hook up monitor)
Finally power supply
Clear cmos
Leave any jumpers at default position (think this board is all soft menu adjustable.
Start PC by bridging PSW (power switch) with a small flatblade screwdriver (momentarily)
Reset by to "fail safe" or default settings.
First guess is always memory followed by poor seating of graphics card and power socket
Next would be power supply (yes it is possible for it to be faulty despite the obvious power to the fans)
Martin
Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
Allan I am sorry this isn't going to help you I seem to be having a similiar issue.
This post is a long one sorry.
I have -
GA7ZM E148299 – AMD 850 mghz
MAXTOR 2F040L0 HARD DRIVE 38 G
NVIDIA GEFORCE4 MX 440 VIDEO CARD
ONBOARD SOUND
NETGEAR NETWORK ADAPTER CARD
CDROM CREATIVE CD820E.1V0789108
CDWRITER SAMSUNG 48 – 24 - 48
WINDOWS XP PROFESSIONAL
OFFICE XP PROFESSIONAL
that I built, when I put it all together it booted fine to install O/S however after installing everything I needed I noticed the HD and Power lights weren't on I figured I have the wires backwards so I turned them around so pin 1 was at hole 1 when booting the system appears to start, the fans turn on all the lights come on blink or what ever they are supposed to do in a normal boot. The monitor stays blank no post no beeps nothing then the hard drive light goes out. If I hit the reset button it boots fine. I have switched every component in the system including the power supply and the same thing happens until I took everything out and changed cases, at which point it booted fine about 30 maybe 40 times. The case I put it in was already sold to a customer so I had to take it out of that case and bought a new case, I put everything into the new case it booted fine about 4 times when I noticed the lights on the front weren't on. Again I had the wires turned around changed the wires no boot no post no beeps but the lights and fans come on hitting the reset button boots it. Turned the wires back the wrong way and it still isn't working. Took battery out, flashed bios, still not working. When I took the battery out - the first time I power it up it comes on with an error to enter setup or load defaults either way I go it boots but to power it down then start up again the same thing happens. The MB was given to me with the CPU. I imagine they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't boot right.
This post is a long one sorry.
I have -
GA7ZM E148299 – AMD 850 mghz
MAXTOR 2F040L0 HARD DRIVE 38 G
NVIDIA GEFORCE4 MX 440 VIDEO CARD
ONBOARD SOUND
NETGEAR NETWORK ADAPTER CARD
CDROM CREATIVE CD820E.1V0789108
CDWRITER SAMSUNG 48 – 24 - 48
WINDOWS XP PROFESSIONAL
OFFICE XP PROFESSIONAL
that I built, when I put it all together it booted fine to install O/S however after installing everything I needed I noticed the HD and Power lights weren't on I figured I have the wires backwards so I turned them around so pin 1 was at hole 1 when booting the system appears to start, the fans turn on all the lights come on blink or what ever they are supposed to do in a normal boot. The monitor stays blank no post no beeps nothing then the hard drive light goes out. If I hit the reset button it boots fine. I have switched every component in the system including the power supply and the same thing happens until I took everything out and changed cases, at which point it booted fine about 30 maybe 40 times. The case I put it in was already sold to a customer so I had to take it out of that case and bought a new case, I put everything into the new case it booted fine about 4 times when I noticed the lights on the front weren't on. Again I had the wires turned around changed the wires no boot no post no beeps but the lights and fans come on hitting the reset button boots it. Turned the wires back the wrong way and it still isn't working. Took battery out, flashed bios, still not working. When I took the battery out - the first time I power it up it comes on with an error to enter setup or load defaults either way I go it boots but to power it down then start up again the same thing happens. The MB was given to me with the CPU. I imagine they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't boot right.
- Thread starter
- #5
Despite it's almost godly status, the Asus A7N-8X Deluxe has been for us the most problematic of all the Nforce2 motherboards we have used.
Our first batch of twelve were all sent back (we simply couldn't get them to run stabley) these were early version 1.1's and things have improved since.
They are particularly fussy on memory type and make, we still sell them but we prefer to recommend the Abit NF7-S or the new Gigabyte GA-7N400 pro, despite the ASUS'S God like status amongst other Nforce2 boards.
Version 2 with the ultra 400 MCP-T chipset are much more tollerant of memory, and that applies to all of the new Nforce2 motherboards.
Always use with the latest Nvidia platform drivers and manufactures bios updates.
Martin
Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
Our first batch of twelve were all sent back (we simply couldn't get them to run stabley) these were early version 1.1's and things have improved since.
They are particularly fussy on memory type and make, we still sell them but we prefer to recommend the Abit NF7-S or the new Gigabyte GA-7N400 pro, despite the ASUS'S God like status amongst other Nforce2 boards.
Version 2 with the ultra 400 MCP-T chipset are much more tollerant of memory, and that applies to all of the new Nforce2 motherboards.
Always use with the latest Nvidia platform drivers and manufactures bios updates.
Martin
Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
Thanks Martin
The problems I have had are identical to Maggpie & Allan 1556 above in that the system worked then stopped. Thought it was maybe a dodgy motherboard but have read about various power issues including soldering wire bridges to boost power to the board! Just was interested to know how Allan1556 resolved the issue but point taken on trying another mobo.
ATM the setup does nothing so hard to flash or update any drivers or bios!
Chris
AMD 3000+ Barton
Asus A7N8X Deluxe Motherboard
Samsung DDR 400Mhz
JNC 4JA H7650 Blue Type 3 ATX Midi Tower Case 300w PSU
2 Western Digital Caviar HDD 120gb Serial Ata150 7200rpm
The problems I have had are identical to Maggpie & Allan 1556 above in that the system worked then stopped. Thought it was maybe a dodgy motherboard but have read about various power issues including soldering wire bridges to boost power to the board! Just was interested to know how Allan1556 resolved the issue but point taken on trying another mobo.
ATM the setup does nothing so hard to flash or update any drivers or bios!
Chris
AMD 3000+ Barton
Asus A7N8X Deluxe Motherboard
Samsung DDR 400Mhz
JNC 4JA H7650 Blue Type 3 ATX Midi Tower Case 300w PSU
2 Western Digital Caviar HDD 120gb Serial Ata150 7200rpm
Try stripping down to the bare minimum of components as listed above.
Reseat everything, despite all appearing to be pushed fully home simply removing and refitting a plug or a graphics card can resolve many a problem.
I would also question your power supply, with what you have fitted a cheap generic 300watt simply won't do, a branded 350watter is the minimum I would
recommend.
Martin
Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
Reseat everything, despite all appearing to be pushed fully home simply removing and refitting a plug or a graphics card can resolve many a problem.
I would also question your power supply, with what you have fitted a cheap generic 300watt simply won't do, a branded 350watter is the minimum I would
recommend.
Martin
Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
Paparazi I would not use a small flat blade screwdriver as it could slip and can short and damage your M/B. If you want to start you computer with a screwdriver use a Star/ phillips head screwdriver that will touch the two pins you want to short.
HardKnox
same differance, you can slip and short out the motherboard with a philips just as easy.
But as we are just talking about gently touching the two terminal headers this is unlikely isn't it?
Anyhow, caution is obviously advised together with a steady hand and positive identification of PW header terminals.
As we are all computer professinals on this site I would think that there is a certain basic level of competance with all the posters.
Martin
Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
same differance, you can slip and short out the motherboard with a philips just as easy.
But as we are just talking about gently touching the two terminal headers this is unlikely isn't it?
Anyhow, caution is obviously advised together with a steady hand and positive identification of PW header terminals.
As we are all computer professinals on this site I would think that there is a certain basic level of competance with all the posters.
Martin
Replying helps further our knowledge, without comment leaves us wondering.
I say always use the right tool for the job.
From the Basic A+ Training course you get told to always use you anti-static strap when working with static sensitive computer equipment and if you gonna start a motherboard with a screw driver not to use a flat because it slips a lot easier then the right size tip of a star point /philips head. It is the same as unplugging your modem cable during a thunder storm it makes sense. Remember there are more newbie’s around on this form then experts and even the experts should be willing to learn.
From the Basic A+ Training course you get told to always use you anti-static strap when working with static sensitive computer equipment and if you gonna start a motherboard with a screw driver not to use a flat because it slips a lot easier then the right size tip of a star point /philips head. It is the same as unplugging your modem cable during a thunder storm it makes sense. Remember there are more newbie’s around on this form then experts and even the experts should be willing to learn.
GaryKearley
IS-IT--Management
If you are going to go down that route HardKnox, then maybe we should all have little power switches, with short leads and connectors at the end, so we can plug them into the PW headers and use "the correct tool for the job"...
using a screwdriver, paper-clip or anything of the right size made out of a conductive material will work, so lets now make things to difficult to do eh?
Training is great, but practical experience always wins...
Gary
using a screwdriver, paper-clip or anything of the right size made out of a conductive material will work, so lets now make things to difficult to do eh?
Training is great, but practical experience always wins...
Gary
Well if you have a switch that you know is good then that would be the right choice Gary. I have done my part in sharing something very simple. Hopefully somebody else will read my post and agree with my comment, and for those who do not, to bad.
You can also order an extra ATX on/off switch from some placed like if you have to have a better way of testing the motherboard outside of the case. That helps a bit. It might be nice to have an extra ATX switch around. They cost less than it costs to ship them. It is just a simple momentary switch that is normally open or off. It sends a signal to the power supply telling it to come out of the dormant state it is in when the computer is powered down. They make switches like this that are sold at radio shack but they do not have the connectors you need to connect to the pins on the motherboard. I dont know where you can find that.
If you do not like my post feel free to point out your opinion or my errors.
If you do not like my post feel free to point out your opinion or my errors.
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