Wow--did this list die????? 3

[chiefred]

Where did everyone go? Don't tell me that this group and the members was so good and knowledgeable that there are no more problems or questions. Or did everyone go on vacation?

reading and learning from all the contributors is vital and helps to keep me current. It is also sometimes entertaining with comedic answers too.

Ok--I will ask a question for mostly the cablers familiar with Residential cabling.

Problem---two story home with half of the home having a vaulted ceiling. Can I get some suggestions (any and all are welcome) of how to run data, voice and coax to first floor rooms. The 2nd floor have all been run through the walls to each bedroom from the attic. The customer does not want cables going from the exterior to those rooms.

Thanks

 

[franklin97355]

Basement, crawl space, or is this on a slab? It's never easy in existing structures.

 

[smegecki]

Cut holes in drywall whereever neccesary and have a finisher repair. Although without seeing the job i have no better ideas. If its here in b-more, md. i can come scope it for you.

 

[smegecki]

Also there are wireless networking, cordless phone & video products as well as products that send voice, data, over 110v powerlines. i don't know if this is an otion.

 

[smegecki]

How Power-line Networking Works

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/power-network2.htm

Shows a picture of a pci nic card that plugs into the 120v outlet at 14mbs.

 

[chiefred]

Should have mentioned that this is in California--so no basements -- and in this home, no crawl space---the customer is not to keen on the wireless solution---however if the cost climbs they might be more open to wireless.

I have looked for areas that I can easily get to on the first floor from the 2nd floor. There is one closet that I can come in from the attic/ceiling and then cut the wall and drill through the top plate but that brings me into the garage---but then its how to get it from there to two rooms away.................


I know someone has run into something similar, somewhere

Thanks everyone

 

[smegecki]

I saw this in another thread. It's a product where you remove the baseboard and 3 inches of drywall and put the chase behind the baseboard and around door frames.

http://www.wiretracks.com/

 

[chiefred]

I had seen that--and suggested that---it is too expensive for this application as it would require about 150 feet of the baseboard material---and that adds at least about 400.00 just for the material.

However--there is a split stairway that sits above a small family bathroom--I believe there is a empty space between the back of the bathroom wall and the outside wall--I also remember that there is a closet in the upstairs bedroom next to the stairs.

anyone ever been in a similar situation--I dont want to drill or cut unless I am sure I can use this. if I can go through the closet down into the void under the stairs and behind the bathroom and then use the baseboards it would be easy, clean and less expensive for the customer.

Maybe I should just start shadowing drywall specialists and painters and learn that trade to make my life simpler.

 

[smegecki]

One other idea: when i do cut i cut a single gang hole or a double gang hole so that i can blank it off with caddy ring and a blank. The job looks finished this way. Some people never fix these holes. Some do.

I'm sure you know this but is there a duct work chase you can hopinto. Just a thought.

Also you can get 14mbs ethernet across the exsting 110 power grid. without pulling any wire at all. The only caveat being all devices need to be on the same phase or you'll need a phase coupler.

drywall hanging and finishing is for the birds. I want no parts of it.

 

[chiefred]

thanks for the tips--I will look into the ducting suggestion and see. That might be the best idea. I really believe since this is about the 5th home I have had with these type of challanges--that learning how to patch drywall cuts and texture might come in very handy. There is all sorts of new construction of homes going on around where I live--so I am sure I can grab enough drywall scraps to last several homes worth.

Anyones else do this? Are there advantages/disadvantages???

 

[wires]

Drywall tips:

Many times it is easier to hide a larger patch than a smaller one. I you have to go across a ceiling first check out which way the joists run. If you are running with the joists many times it is useful to cut a fairly large access hole at one end. NEATLY cut a 12"x12" to 16"x16" hole from the center of one joist to the center of the next one. This will allow you to get your head and flashlight up there to see what is going on. If running across joists cut a 12.25" wide section out so it is easy to cut replacement panels. Cutting STRAIGHT and NEAT makes the fixup easier! A sharp utility knife and plenty of blades are a good way to cut with minimum mess.

There are two common consistencies of drywall compound, joint and topping. Use joint compound (thicker body) and fiberglass mesh tape for the first coat. The less compound you put on the faster it will dry. BE NEAT! Instead of sanding use a damp sponge. Final coats are done with topping compound (thinner body, cut joint with water if desired). For a nice faint texture use thinned topping compound and a short nap roller.

The already mentioned Caddy ring and blank plate are a GREAT way to avoid drywall repair. Most people don't even notice them.

Going across (non-load bearing) studs is easy with a 2" and 4" hole saw. First use the 4" to make a drywall cutout centered on a stud. Remove the 4" drywall divot carefully and set it aside. Next use the 2" holesaw to cut 1" into the stud. The stud divot can usually be removed with a hefty flat bladed screwdriver. You will now have a nice notched stud. Place your wires, cover the notch with a nail plate and glue the drywall divot back over the hole. Many times these holes can be fixed with quick setting spackle.

RTV works great as a glue for the paper side of drywall. If you can keep it thin it will setup in 20-30 minutes.

Paint stir sticks or builders shims glued across the back side of a hole work well to provide a gluing surface for a replacement piece.

Drywall repair isn't difficult but it is time consuming and in most cases best left to others. Thinking about how the drywall will be fixed will separate you from the hacks. I saw a job one time where an electrician and his helper made so many crooked and unneeded cuts that it took the drywallers an extra day to recut and fix the mess. The homeowner was furious since the mess was multiplied times two. The electrician ended up getting fired.

Cut once, cut straight and don't ever make holes with hammers!!!

 

[chiefred]

great info--and sound advice

Thanks

 

[Jd925]

there is a product out now. when you cut out the drywall save that peice.

http://www.prest-on.com/

its a great little invention

 

[chiefred]

Now thats a great product--I can use that---thanks