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Splicing Cat5e or Cat6

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AvayaNovice

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Apr 6, 2003
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Is there a particular standard and or method to splicing Cat5e or Cat6 riser cable if it gets cut or damaged?

The only time I've ever done it was using a 5 pair 710 module, and it worked fairly well (the 710 module was cat5e rated) and passed with a pentascanner.

But are there premanufactured mini splice cases for that purpose?
 
I dont beleive you are allowed to splice , you should re-run the cable.

that said If I had to splice I would probably cut the damaged cable terminate each end with a jack and run a 1' premade patch cord between. making a note to pull a new cable next time we were pulling cable in that location.
 
Since this is Cat 5e or Cat 6, it is only 4 pair, you should pull new cable. That being said.....

Splices are not allowed in the horizontal runs, but you said riser cable, do you mean backbone cables?

If you are talking backbone, the ONLY way you should ever splice is with a 110 block or 210 for cat 6. The standard does not allow for a jack in the backbone, only blocks.
Using a jack method will introduce a bit more loss than a block with a C4 clip. By the standard all splices are to be enclosed in a splice closure and are meant to be permanent.

Richard S. Anderson, RCDD
 
Well, I would pull new cable... but in the case of it being inside a wall that's secured, that was installed by someone else, and I'm just being thrown into the mix, and the customer isn't exactly thrilled with the idea of tearing it open for a cable that's running to one office... I think a splice is the only way to go.

That being said... I guess my 710 module is the only way to go. Cat5e compliant.
 
Since it's only one cable, and you want to make a self contained splice using a 110 block, here's what I would use:


Pull out the C4, and throw away the jack itself. Punch one end of the cable on the base of the jack assembly, which is basically a 4-pair 110 block, then put on the C4, and punch the other end to the C4. You can cut away the opening where the jack module used to be, so you can place the cover back on over the cables. Voila'
 
Those aren't Cat5e compliant, anyone make them as such?
 
Avaya. It doesn't sound like it is going to compliant any way other than a new pull. From your description, that may not be an option. Something you might be able to try is placing both ends in a plastic receptacle box. Place a jack at both and run a patch cable between the two. Doesn't sound very pretty but I bet it will work?


Mikey
 
I'm sure it would, but that just adds some unneccesary components. I want to bond them together... and a Cat5e compliant 710 module seems like the best bet. And I could swear that I read somewhere that it is compliant standards wise, but that may be old or something. I just don't see the need to introduce cabling into the scheme like a patch cord when I could simply put them together in a 710 module. I could use a tiny 110 block, but that wouldn't be as clean and use as few elements as a 710 module would, as 710 modules are designed for splices in the first place...

I thought there might be some trick to this, oh well.
 
im not familar with the 710 module

what is it ?
 
Well, they come in 5 pair, 10 pair, and 25 pair modules. I began using them for splicing OSP cable, and also for splicing from OSP to protectors when I was a splicer for the CSU system.

Anyways. 3M makes them now, and they look somewhat similar to a 25 pair long 110 block. It's a four step process, you use what's called a unipress, or 710 press. You lay all 25 pairs into the module itself, and then press them into the IDC teeth. Then you engage the blade and cut the excess off. Then you do the next module, and from there crimp the two together using a third piece that's for a direct splice. Hard to explain, I'll see if I can't find some photos.

They also make bridge tap modules.

Basically... this allows you to interface up to 25 pair at a time for large splice applications.

The reason I would use them for something like this, is that they're designed for splicing, and they make them cat5e compliant. It's the only thing I could think of that's actually designed for splicing that's Cat5e rated.

Here's a photo of an older model:

The cap you see at the top is removable, and looks somewhat similar to an elco connector. It's used to patch into a 25 pair test unit for testing 25 pair at a time as you complete the buildout for a particular cable or system. They work great... and if you do anything with large pair count cables, you should definetely look into getting one. They make a 5 pair model that can do the 25 pair modules, just takes a hell of a lot longer.
 
Unless I am mistaken, the 710 would be categorized as a legal splice, IF we are talking backbone, NOT horizontal. I guess I needed to spell that out. If you are splicing the backbone, it needs to be in a splice closure and be permanent.


Richard S. Anderson, RCDD
 
you say its inside a secure wall

how are you going to get that splice rig in there ? or are there smaller ones that connect with hand tools

thanks for the picture Ive seen these before never used them we do little OSP and then its just to a outbuilding on the custmers premise.
 
Yes, they make smaller ones that are hand driven (that would be the 5 pair model), and to be honest, I didn't really think that through, I'd probably end up having to splice twice all things considered.

Servamatic -- I heard you the first time.

I know it's probably not "legal" for a horizontal cable, but I'm trying to come up with something that would insert the least amount of loss and trouble.
 
Hmmm, maybe I'm not being clear:

Obviously this wouldn't be standards compliant.

I'm trying to find the BEST solution, that insers the LEAST amount of loss, and yields the BEST performance considering the circumstances. I'm coming up with a 710 module. Has anyone else got a better idea that would be more performance oriented?

Maybe that will make it more clear.
 
Then it sounds like the BEST solution, that inserts the LEAST amount of loss, and yields the BEST performance is to replace the cable. Now you're talking not one but two splices in the horizontal. We can talk about the use of a "consolidation point" as a way to "extend" the horizontal via 110,Krone or BIX, but if you talking about only one cable, you (or the customer)may be wasting alot of time and material to come up with a solution to avoid replacing the cable.
 
I think your 710 is probably a sound solution. In a perfect world and a good budget, we all know the best thing to do is replace the cable. However in the real world, on a realistic budget, that is not always a solution. And while you can stand there and preach to the customer that he should spend $300 to have you snake that cable out and put a new one in....someone will be standing around offering to get him going in 15 minutes for $50.

Sometimes we have to compromise a bit, realizing that it is a weak point and not compliant.

Good Luck!

It is only my opinion, based on my experience and education...I am always willing to learn, educate me!
Daron J. Wilson, RCDD
daron.wilson@lhmorris.com
 
Have you considered 3M Scotch-locks? I've never tested them but they're an easy IDC based fix without special tools or space requirements.
 
Nick,
You know that I don't know to much about the 710s, but I think I would have to side with the previous post that suggested a 110 with patch cords. This could be done fairly cheeply, and be almost complient to the standards.
I believe it is Siemon that has a 25pair, 110 block, and maybe even as 25pr 210 (which is their Cat6). Panduit might also, but that needs a different punch tool.
Mount the 110 at the cut (I'm assume that the cut is out side the secured wall), terminate the two ends of the exposed cable at opposite ends of the 110 block. Get the shortest 110-110 patch cord that is of the same manufacture as the 110 & C4's, and patch between the two.
Since you can go to 4 connections with Cat6, and still be 'legal', this would only be your third (1 patch panel, 2 jack). I'm not sure it gets to the 'spirit of the law' but, I might go as far to say its good. And spec wise, it should test out just fine, as long as you went with decent parts (do I hear an ICC comment coming?)

Justin

Justin T. Clausen
Physical Layer Implementation
California State University, Monterey Bay
 
ICC, ah yes... how I love ICC.

Justin, head over to that building that's north of telecom, the one right next to Ron's building... the one that has the stuff painted on the outside, I can't remember which number. I snaked a 25 pair protector from it one time.

Anyways...

There are a bunch of 710 splices in there.

Point is, splicing once would be the best idea... if it was a clean cut, and there was somehow enough slack to pull a few inches together so there isn't any strain. 710 wold work great for that.

If I had to splice twice, then yeah... maybe a jack with a patch cord or something like that. But if I could get enough slack somehow, then 710 sounds like the way to go.

Daron -- good point, and that was my main theme. I'm not dealing with something I prewired, because I sure as hell would have made it possible to replace the cable. This stuff was ran by an electrician... he stapled it all along the way, and it was working fine with my terminations up until this point. So... this is the best thing I can think of without spending at least 8 hours to get the whole thing re-ran... which would be nearly impossible considering the circumstances.

Thanks guys, good ideas...
 
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