Replacement power supply options 2

[Nelviticus]

The power supply for my NAS (a Synology DS411j) has died and I'm looking to buy a replacement, but I can't figure out whether the ones offered by third-party vendors that are listed as 'compatible' are actually compatible.

My dead power supply is marked as providing a DC output of 12V and 8.33A and according to the manufacturer's site it's rated at 100W.

I've seen a few listings on eBay that say they're compatible but when you check the details they don't match the above. For example:
[ul]
[li]Power output: 12V, 4~5 amp (correct voltage, wrong current)[/li]
[li]Output Voltage: 19V, Output Current: 8.33A~9A (correct current, wrong voltage)[/li]
[li]Output details not specified (but says it's compatible)[/li]
[/ul]
Those will all take several weeks to arrive in the UK from the US, or there's this one which I could get a lot cheaper and with next-day delivery, but it doesn't include my NAS in the compatibility list:
[ul]
[li]Genuine CWT 12V 10A (120W) power supply unit[/li]
[/ul]
Does anyone know whether any of those are likely to work, or will I just be shelling out a fortune and waiting a few weeks to then blow up my NAS?

Thanks

Nelviticus

 

[goombawaho]

You need to use exactly or very close to the voltage required (12V) and EQUAL or MORE amps, but NOT less. So 8A or above. Very simple, don't take a chance otherwise.

You could use a CAR battery for temporary (assuming 12V). Splice the same type barrel connection and attach it to the correct polarity on the battery. If you had a battery charger, you could hook it up to the battery as well to keep it going. Not sure that it would be able to keep up with the draining of the battery though.

I think you could also use a computer power supply that is rated with enough AMPS on the 12V wires and cut them off and there you have it. You can use a paper clip to "switch" the power supply on. Here is a rating from the following power supply - should work (overkill, just example).
Link
+5V@24A, +3.3V@24A, +12V@48A, -12V@0.8A, +5VSB@2.5A

Link

So, basically, I would work around the issue and then buy a genuine replacement rather than a cheapo or one that doesn't match.

"Living tomorrow is everyone's sorrow.
Modern man's daydreams have turned into nightmares.

 

[edfair]

12v10a will likely be the one you need. But your requirements seem high. How many drives are installed? Likely needs are 15w per drive and 10 for control using 3.5 less for 2.5.
Using one with current supply less than specified may degrade the output enough to cause problems.
19 volt unit would be likely stressing the drive motors. Assuming that there is no further step down inside the box.
unspecified is trusting the supplier to know what is needed.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[Nelviticus]

There are four 3TB drives installed and the device has two fans.

Looks like I should go for the 12V/10A one then, which is great because it's a UK vendor so will arrive next day and cost a fraction of the price of shipping one from the US. My soldering skills are non-existent and I don't have a spare car battery, nor do I trust myself to cobble something together that won't kill either the NAS or me.

I don't think Synology sell genuine replacements any more. The NAS is a low-end consumer model that's nearly six years old now.

Thanks

Nelviticus

 

[rclarke250]

Typical WD RED NAS drives have 12v and 1.73 A each. So just under 7A for drives alone. Controller card and the 2 fans and overhead then have 1.4A Seems about right to me. 12v/10a is the way to go, but like Goom says, you could use any 12v supply as long as the Amps were above the needed 8.33A.

 

[goombawaho]

Yeah, I wouldn't deviate from 12.0 volts and I would like to see some headroom over 8A, so as suggested 10 or more.

"Living tomorrow is everyone's sorrow.
Modern man's daydreams have turned into nightmares.

 

[ChrisHirst]

Don't be tempted to use a car battery OR charger, even temporarily.

The 'nominal' 12v DC voltage of a six cell car battery when charged is 13.5 to 13.8 and 'trickle' charger output can be up to 14.2v.

Chris.

Indifference will be the downfall of mankind, but who cares?
Time flies like an arrow, however, fruit flies like a banana.
Webmaster Forum

 

[hairlessupportmonkey]

https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/spare_parts/DS416play

ACSS - SME
General Geek

 

[Nelviticus]

Yeah, that page is quite bizarre as you can see the spare parts but there are no prices or any mechanism for ordering them (at least, not when viewed from the UK). I ended up going with the last link in my original post and it's working fine.

Nelviticus

 

[goombawaho]

I know you already have this solved, but I have to retract my advice about using a 12V battery BECAUSE it's not really 12 volts. I looked at a 7 amp hour lead acid battery and fully charged it read like 13.03 volts. So, anything sensitive to more than a volt different - no go.

And the battery charger idea - no good either because that would provide MORE than 13 volts.

Computer power supply WOULD be a true 12 volts.

"Living tomorrow is everyone's sorrow.
Modern man's daydreams have turned into nightmares.

 

[hairlessupportmonkey]

The 12V rating is measured with a load. a computer PSU is still over 12V (13.8V) with no load.

ACSS - SME
General Geek

 

[goombawaho]

Didn't know that but didn't need to know that because it's made for a computer. We were sort of talking about "non-standard temporary engineering methods" for an alternative power supply.

Aren't the wall warts also over voltage then too?

"Living tomorrow is everyone's sorrow.
Modern man's daydreams have turned into nightmares.

 

[edfair]

Most switchers require a load to stabilize. Would normally say all, but my sample size is limited.

Ed Fair
Give the wrong symptoms, get the wrong solutions.

 

[goombawaho]

Makes sense. When I have measured voltage (unloaded) for the wall wart power supplies, they are almost always over voltage by quite a bit.

"Living tomorrow is everyone's sorrow.
Modern man's daydreams have turned into nightmares.