Reading DVDs results in a BSOD and Machine_Check_Exception 1

[festivus528]

Anytime I put a DVD into my DVD drive, my computer will reboot and I will get a BSOD. The error I get is a Machine_Check_Exception with the error code: STOP: 0x0000009c(0x00000004,0x8054d5f0,0xb2000000,0x00070f0f). I have tired multiple drivers, and changed the ide cable. When I changed the IDE cable, I was able to play Oblivion. When I shut down and restarted, my computer would not boot until I took the disc out. This problem is recent, as I was able to load DVDs a month ago. The only thing I have changed hardware-wise would be a Viewsonic vx2025wm and a Creative X-Fi xtrememusic.

My computer:
AN8-SLI Premium (latest Bios)
AMD x2 3800+ (Not overclocked)
eVGA GeForce 7800GT
1 Gb Corsair XMS TWINX1024-3200C2PRO
Western Digital 160Gb Caviar (SATA)
Lite-On Combo Drive
Creative X-Fi Xtrememusic

I am stumped on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[stduc]

MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION:

A machine check exception occurs when Windows XP and your hardware platform cannot recover from a hardware error so that the system can continue to run successfully and reliably. More specific diagnosis of machine check exceptions is difficult, and there is no general solution.

Machine check exceptions are frequently caused by one of the following conditions:
• You are running the processor or mainboard beyond its specifications. For example, you are overclocking the processor or bus. We recommend that you run your hardware at the manufacturer-rated speeds.
• Noisy power, overstressed power strips, outmatched power supplies and failing power supplies can destabilize your computer. Make sure that you have a stable, reliable power supply to your computer.
• Extreme thermal conditions caused by the failure of cooling devices such as fans may damage your computer. Make sure that your cooling devices are all working.
• You have damaged memory or memory that is not the correct type for your computer. If you recently changed the memory configuration, revert to the previous configuration to determine what is wrong. Make sure that you are using the correct memory for your computer.
• You may have the incorrect or outdated video drivers installed. Check with the manufacturer and obtain updated drivers

 

[festivus528]

Thanks. I just ran memtest overnight and it had 36 passes with 0 errors, so it's not my ram. I am not overclocking anything, so its not #1. The temperature is normal so it's not that either. It could be my power supply because I have a cheapo Rosewill that I bought for 30 bucks. I have the latest nVidia drivers (forceware 91.31).

Could it be my soundcard messing things up? The problem started after I installed it. I'll take it out and see if it works.

I also have an external DVD writer, so I'll try and see if that works. Thanks for the help.

 

[stduc]

My bet's the power supply - cheap PSU's cause so much grief!

Search these forums and you'll see!

here's one I found

http://www.tek-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=865828

 

[wahnula]

I have noticed an increasing incidence of DVD drive failures. My formerly-expensive Sony dru-710 just crashed my home machine, system would not boot into safe mode. Took it out, system was fine.

I have seen two other DVD drive failures this month, and I only oversee about 12 PCs. I would try a different drive, if you shop you can get a Lite-on for about $25 delivered.

 

[festivus528]

My power supply is 500 watts. Although it is cheap, I bet it has enough juice to power my system. The voltages arre well within the ATX spec. I do have an old one so I'll try that one.

 

[festivus528]

Okay I plugged in that external dvd drive, and popped in a dvd. It worked completely fine. I've been playing Oblivion ever since.

 

[stduc]

So it looks like your DVD drive then?

However.

A quick note on PSU power.

Without going into the math too heavily, your 500 watt PSU is 500 watts of what? Peak? RMS? or average? Assume worst case and the quoted figure is peak. (manufacturers like big numbers - it helps sell the goods)

Average power is roughly half peak and RMS is roughly .7 of peak, so if that quoted 500 watts is peak then you only have a 250 watt PSU.

In a PSU the amount of ripple left on the DC output and its ability to handle a sudden increase in demand is decided by the quality of the capacitors and chokes used in its construction. A cheap PSU is likely therefore to show a drop in DC voltage momentarily when the computer makes such a demand. Such as putting in a DVD - the CPU will go 100% and the DVD motor will be starting up. That situation is not good for computers! The voltage drop can cause a BSOD.

 

[festivus528]

Makes sense because the external DVD drive isn't using power from the power supply. I was going to buy an Antec p180 and a new power supply in about a month anyway, so I'll use the external until then. Thanks for all your help.

 

[LawnBoy]

Stduc:
RMS is a calculation performed on an AC current, to give it's average value.

Since the discussion is about the DC output of a power supply, RMS is not applicable.

The current draw of the AC input to the supply is an RMS value.

 

[stduc]

Lawnboy

You are right in a sense - but RMS comes into it because the source of power is AC. It can still be treated as AC after rectification & before smoothing.

What I said about a good PSU being able to respond quickly to demand and a cheap one - not - is my main point however.

 

[LawnBoy]

Yes, RMS comes into play before smoothing. However,
<pedant mode>
I've never seen a spec for a DC supply state post-rectification current values because they are meaningless for anybody except the engineer designing the supply. When a spec states a DC supply draws 3.71 amps AC, that is an RMS value. When a spec states a DC supply produces 500 watts DC, that is not an RMS value.
The output of a 'normal' pc power supply cannot be considered as AC, it is DC. Yes, there is some ripple in even the best power supply, but it is ignored in the output rating, because the current supplied by a few millivolts (or microvolts, in the better supplies) of ripple is negligable.
</pedant mode>

 

[stduc]

LawnBoy

But is the DC wattage they are all quoting? I don't think so, because I have seen PC's fail with a 500 watt cheapo noname and the same PC run just fine on a 200 watt recognised brand.

 

[LawnBoy]

Usually. The difference is (as you correctly pointed out) cheapo brands quote peak specs while solid brands quote sustainable run specs.

As in: My cheapo supply can run 750 watts (but only for 30 seconds or so until it overheats, if you want to run it continuously you can only draw 200 watts).
versus
My solid brand unit will run 500 watts continuously (but it will handle short peak loads of 1200 watts).

 

[stduc]

Lawnboy. Great answer. Maybe you should write a FAQ on PSU's? I bow to your obviously superior knowledge. I have been under the misapprehension that:-

A really bad manufacturer quoted the max power computed from peak input power.
A not so bad quoted Max RMS input power.
& a good one quoted Max DC output power.

It never occurred to me that they could quote Max power as power output at self destruct point!

It is analogous to Hi Fi systems though, where you get a system rated by the manufactures as 500 watt pms for example that is about .5 watt RMS in reality! (I exaggerate for emphasis (or do I?))

Your reply prompted me to do a little googling and I found this interesting article which seems to cover all bases on PSU's

http://short-media.com/review.php?r=133

 

[LawnBoy]

It is analogous to Hi Fi systems

Exactly. You've gotta watch out for peak ratings, continuous rating are usually 1/2 to 1/3 of peak ratings.

Great article. More detail than most people care about, but any tech junkie should enjoy it.

 

[festivus528]

I just bought a Seasonic S-12 430 watt PSU. I put it in and when I booted up I got some beep codes. I think it was 2-2-1, but I'm not sure. I let it sit for awhile and when I came back it booted up fine. So I put a DVD in it and no BSOD. Then I eject the disc and get a BSOD. What do I do now?

 

[stduc]

OK - somethings up with the hardware if you got POST beep codes.

What's you BIOS (make & version - displays at boot up if you go into BIOS configuration)

First thing to check is the RAM.

Google and download memtest86 and follow the instructions to build a self booting floppy to test your RAM.

Report back BIOS details and results of memtest86.

 

[festivus528]

Okay, first of all thanks for all your help. Its a Phenoix Bios, revision 1009. I ran memtest for 12 hours with no errors.

 

[stduc]

If you are right about the BIOS beeps then the finger of suspicion is still pointing at memory. See BIOS beep codes

This seems odd though as memtest ran for so long error free (that was with exactly your current config/new PSU right?)

I think you are going to have to analyse a mini dump as a next step in order to see what is causing the BSOD. Set up XP to make a minidump when it BSOD's (System properties/Startup & recovery - set to small memory dump)
Visit Microsoft and download and install the dump analysis tool WinDbg.

Hopefully this will give you a clearer idea of what is causing these BSOD's. If allow several BSOD's to occur and they all point to different drivers - then it is likely a hardware fault. If they all point to the same driver (say) then at least you know what to blame.

If you feel you can't analyse a mini dump yourself (it's not hard!) then if you can post a link to it I happy to have a look.