Pentium 4 3.0ghz processor - overheating

[AaronJL]

I have the standard Intel heatsink/fan combination and a Pentium 4 3.0ghz processor. I've had this processor for over 2 years and kept it in an apartment with no carpet and great airflow for the first year or so. Then I moved to a new apartment with carpet and not a great amount of airflow for the computer tower. It still continued to work great for about 6-8 months but for the last four months I've been experiencing overheating issues. I thought it was the Mobo, so I replaced that but I eventually took it to Best Buy because it wouldn't stop and they saw the heatsink was loose and put it on "properly." It worked for about a month with no problems and then went right back to overheating.

Ok, so yeah...I really CAN put together a computer and I know all about heatsinks and fan and creating a good airflow. I've even taken the side panel off and put a box fan blowing on it or just off to the side...all kinds of scenarios to get more air on the processor (or to get the heat away from the processor)

My question is this:

If I have the proper amount of thermal paste, the heatsink is fastened properly with good contact, and the fan is running anywhere from 2500 up to 4000 rpm and the temperature continues to climb (starts at about 33C, then climbs to 65C within a minute, eventually shutting the computer down)...is my processor giving up the ghost or should I get a better heatsink/fan than the standard Intel one, which worked perfectly for 1.5 years?


If it is the processor, my mother board can support up to quad-core processors (but my wallet can't). What should I go to? Do the dual-cores offer better heat management? I seem to remember the P4 processors having problems with heat generation.

Thank you!

 

[wahnula]

The Thermaltake V1 is a variable-speed high-performance cooling fan for LGA 775 CPUs. The stock fan might be wearing out. This cooler bests the Zalman CPS-9700 in tests and is adjustable to keep the volume down.

Running a PC with the side panel removed is not recommended, as most cases are designed for airflow and need that cover attached to perform correctly. As a rule, there should be an intake fan (120mm is best) at the bottom front of the case and an exhaust fan(s) at the top rear of the case to ensure positive airflow.

Tony

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[wahnula]

One more thing...the LGA 775 uses a plastic clip locking mechanism that, once compromised, will never work correctly again. Looking at the back side of the motherboard, you should see two translucent white plastic flanges with a black pin in the center. The black pin should protrude through the flanges.

The Thermaltake I referenced above (and the Zalman too) utilize screw-mounting to the motherboard, a much better solution. It's easy to see that the heatsink is 100% secured to the board.

Tony

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[AaronJL]

If my motherboard doesn't "appear" to have the holes pre-drilled to mount a fan that screws into the board, what's the best way to take care of that?

 

[wahnula]

Is this an LGA 775 CPU? I assumed so since you said it could support quad-core. If so the coolers come with a plastic backplate that holds the four nuts that the cooler screws into. If not, and this is a Socket 478 CPU, it's a different critter. There's still good aftermarket coolers from Zalman, you need to first clarify the socket type.

Tony

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[G0AOZ]

Sounds to me like the heatsink isn't mounting properly on the CPU. You're best taking the motherboard right out of the case, as it is pretty nigh impossible to see any slight lifting of the heatsink with mobo mounted. I've seen these actually pull away from the motherboard by a millimetre, and that's all it takes to destroy the heat transfer...

ROGER - G0AOZ.

 

[AaronJL]

It is socket 775, and thank you for letting me know that. I hate the idea of taking everything out again to mount a fan but on the other hand, I hate even more the idea of burning my machine to a crisp.

Thanks all!

 

[wahnula]

==>"I hate the idea of taking everything out again to mount a fan"

Agreed, but don't shortcut it and try to wiggle the adapter under the mainboard...I can say from experience that it's easier to just pop out the mobo. Mine now comes out/goes back in fully connected in less than 20 minutes. Count the mobo hold-down screws!

There are other coolers (ThermalTake makes one) that do not require mobo removal, but they still use the questionable (to me) stock mounting system. When done correctly, the stock mounting system is fine, but there's little tolerance for screw-ups.



Tony

Users helping Users...

 

[AaronJL]

hey, wanted to post a follow up if anybody actually gets this. I wound up purchasing a $60 mammoth heatsink that is super, super quiet and I did have to take everything out to screw it in properly but let me tell you...I have a hot house right now due to Fall and my lovely heatsink keeps my processor at a very healthy 39 degrees C, and soooooometimes, it makes it to 40 degrees C.

Thanks for your help, all!

 

[wahnula]

Good job AaronJL. We appreciate follow-up posts even if they are months later. Since posting my original response, I reseated my Thermaltake V-1 and realized it didn't require motherboard removal like I originally reported; it uses the Intel plastic clips, so no motherboard removal required.

What brand cooler did you end up with?

Tony

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