New Construction Cabling

[grundy]

I have a couple questions on running Cat5e & Cat3 cable in a new consturction. I have run cable before only in old/existing construction never in new construction. I will be probally running interwall cables. I read about the specs about how far to run away from power. My questions are

1. Do I need to run plenum between studs?
2. Is there a standard height for putting data/phone outlets?
3. Are there any good resources I can read before the installation takes place?

I'm going to check with my local fire marshall for all building codes etc. Is there anything else I should know about cabling a new construction. I'm unsure about the type of celing they are putting in, so I'm not sure if its going to be a drop or what.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[daronwilson]

You only need plenum wire where required by code, generally in environmental air handling places such as drop ceilings where the space above the ceiling tile is used for building air.

There are several standard heights. Unless you are dealing with ADA requirements (Americans with Disabilities Act) you have some leaway. Personally, I wait until the electrician has set the outlets and run his wire. Less chance of my wire getting damaged, and he has to make the decision for the outlet height. I just match what is already in place to avoid doing it wrong.

A good reference would "Telecommunications Cabling Installation", published by McGraw Hill. It is very compliant with EIA/TIA standards and has many good illustrations and information.

Depending on what you are running, you may want to hire someone to guide you and lay you out with materials. Simple things like supports for the wire. Knowing which ones work for which environment make a big difference in the ease of cabling.

One last thing, be sure to check with your local and state jurisdiction, where I am this type of work requries a contractors license, electrician's license and a permit for the work which will be inspected prior to approval.

Good Luck!

It is only my opinion, based on my experience and education...I am always willing to learn, educate me!
Daron J. Wilson, RCDD
daron.wilson@lhmorris.com

 

[grundy]

I'm in Michigan. I just checked on Michigan.gov and found nothing about it. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. Is there a better site to check that stuff out?

I'm going to wait until the electrician runs his outlets. I will just go in outer and run the cables and the boxes. I should be ok :/ I think

 

[jeffbouldin]

In Tennessee the electrical inspector is who you would have to consult. Try starting with him. He should be able to tell you what codes to follow or at least who you should ask.

 

[skip555]

I wouldnt bother running cat 3 for voice. If it were me I would do cat5e for both voice and data the cost diffrence would be negligable

 

[Bobg1]

Im with skip on using cat5. makes the complete job multi functional. Besides you may find that the cost of cable is real close, possibly less, by purchasing a larger quantity of one type. Also you then dont have to remember which you were going to pull where.

 

[ANFPS26]

Someone posted this link in another forum on connecting Cat 5 to the jacks. It might come in handy:

http://www.jimhayes.com/VHO/utpterm/cat5pd-4.htm

Jim

 

[grundy]

Thanks for all the help I just have a few more questions. I will be running all Cat5e for the phones and data outlets. I found out today their will be a drop celing so it looks like I will be using plenum. The office is currently being framed with metal studs. I will probally go in after the electrician gets finished with his work. So just a couple questions

1. From the wiring closet I will go up throuhg condiuts into the celing and run to the location and down through the metal studs into the junction box? I've only ever worked in home construction where they use wood studs. Where can I order joist rings for this. Do I have the basic idea of how this is going to work?

2. They want me to move their exisitng pbx system. I'm just lost there. I need to do some research on 66 blocks before I try to hook that thing up. Its the phone company repsonsiblity to bring in all the lines to a specified wiring closet right? Thats something I take up with the phone company?

3. Anything I should know about metal studs? It looks like I will be putting in about 16 data and 14 voice.

Thanks!

 

[daronwilson]

Well you will certainly have your work cut out for you! I would strongly suggest buying an hour or so of someone's time who has done this kind of work to lay you out with what you need, it may save a lot of work later.

You will need to find a supplier for supports and wiring products. I would start with an electrical supply house, or even better a datacom supplier like graybar or anixter. Next I would choose a brand of products you want to use. There are many to choose from, start inexpensive with Allen tel, Sprint products group or ICC. These products will meet your needs and all have enough variety to get you what you need for phone and data drops. If you want to spend more money, then you are looking at Amp, Ortronics, Hellerman-Tyton, Panduit, and a host of others. Then select your wire. I would suggest good quality 5e for your data (General, Belden, Berk-tek, Mohawk) and a minimum of Cat5 for your telephone. Generally I use blue for data and white for voice, just nice if they are a different color. Oh, BTW, drop ceiling alone does not constitute plenum space. Many drop ceilings have HVAC units above them and are completely ducted to intake and discharge vents. Plenum is substantially more money, but it is always safer if you use it. My appologies to manufacturers I didn't list, just pulled up what came to mind quickly. So now you have selected your brand of products and your cable, you are ready to look at the raceways and supports.

Normally you would have a conduit hub or nipple leaving the data room. For your installation, a couple 2" EMT conduits should be ample. They should be secured to the structure, and have a connector on each end to avoid hurting the jacket as you pull wires through it. From that point into the general floor area it is up to you. There are many manufacturers that have products to support your cable (which should be supported every 4-5 feet as a minimum). One that has a wide variety as well as the hardware you need to clamp it onto the building structure is Caddy/Erico (

http://www.erico.com

http://www.caddyfasteners.com).

They have hooks, brackets, etc. Be sure to run your cables in neat straight lines, you should make your corners as close to 90 degress as possible while still maintaining the minimum bend radius of the cable (1" or so), and try to stay in the hallway accessible areas with your runs. It is much easier to add to later if you don't have to go raise ceiling tile in each office on the way from the equipment room to the far office. Try to avoid placing the run right over the florecent lites, preferrably 18" above them if you are going right over them.

So now, we get this mess to the top of the wall and need to get the wires down. Remember wherever you go through the metal stud you will need a bushing/grommet or conduit. Personally, in these installations I prefer to have a 4 by 4 electrical box with a single gang mud ring and 3/4" EMT conduit stubbed up to above the drop ceiling. You may want to find out if the electrician will do this for you, it makes things easy and certainly clean. If that isn't your deal, you will need to drill or punch the metal studs and snap in the plastic bushing or grommet that protects the wire before pulling any wire through it. Those parts can be obtained from your electrical supply house. Then the easiest way I know of is to get single gang 'mud' rings, these are the metal plates they put on the front of an electrical box that sticks through the drywall (mud) and gives you a place to attach your faceplate. If you use mud rings, you should score some of the self drilling pan head screws they use for putting the metal studs together and screw the mud ring to the front face of the metal stud with those.

That should get you close to getting the wiring in there, of course this assumes you are tying the wires up in the supports (not too tight, not tight enough to deform the jacket).

If you can, I'd get catalogs from Leviton, Panduit, Ortronics, etc. Almost all those manufactures have a nice appendix in the catalog showing you what you should do for this kind of job. Also, keep asking!

Oh, telco stuff. The phone company is responsible for delivering your dial tones to their point of demarcation (commonly called the dmarc oddly enough). From there, it is your responsibility. Depending on the telco, especially non-bell companies have a side that does the inside work as well and may be willing to do as much extending of wire as you need for a pretty hefty price. Moving the PBX can be interesting, let us know what type of system you are looking at and we can probably give you some specific advice.

Good Luck!

It is only my opinion, based on my experience and education...I am always willing to learn, educate me!
Daron J. Wilson, RCDD
daron.wilson@lhmorris.com

 

[ANFPS26]

That link I provided also has some 66 block connecting info.

Jim

 

[ANFPS26]

http://www.jimhayes.com/VHO/utpterm/cat3-66.htm

Jim

 

[skip555]

I would suggest buying a manual for the pbx you are going to move and read the installation section before the move.
Its also helpfull to have programing info as they may want to change some things in the new location.

since you are unfamilar with PBXs spend time and study the current installation , be shure you understand where everything is going. make notes, diagrams and label things before you move. If you have or have access to a digital camera take pictures they can come in handy if you get confused.

As Daron suggested post a note here as to what type of PBX it is and some of us with experiance with that brand
can help you out.

 

[skip555]

with 14 voice outlets your probably dealing with a key system rather than a PBX
most key systems use a nicad battery to hold programing data without AC power
If the sytem is 5 years old or so the battery may not hold the data
Ive run into this twice recently moving customers so As I mentioned in my other post I would strongly suggest you have a programming/installation manual available before you attempt to move it