Don't use that product. Or if you want to use it punch all of your station wires (cables to the wall jacks) down to 110 blocks and use cross connect wire to the DD1.
The whole idea of punchdown terminations is to terminate all the station wiring in a logical and permanent fashion while allowing easy Moves, Adds and Changes. The DD1 will require you to repunch the station wires anytime you need to make a change. Not good...
For me the easiest way to handle phone lines are illustrated in these links:
hi-res
low-res
Four lines enter from the NID in the four port surface mount box at the top center and are broken out to single line jacks. From there line 1 goes to a DSL filter and on to the DSL modem and the blue pair on all the regular station jacks. Line 2 is the fax line and goes to a Stick
and on to the center pair at the fax and modem jacks. Line 3 is a rollover from line 1 and goes to the orange pair on all the regular station jacks.
At the station jacks the blue and orange pairs are terminated at the left top jack and the green and brown pairs are terminated at the top right jack. This results in 2 2-line jacks per wall plate.
I find this method to be fast, easy and simple to understand. Any configuration of line X on pair X can be implemented easily and without disturbing the permanent wiring. If the customer decides to upgrade to a phone system that can be done without disturbing the permanent wiring. If you need to convert the phone wires to network wires (IP phones for instance) then all you need to do is rewire the wall plates. If you look closely you will notice that the wires at stations 14-17 are not punched down so those jacks are not "hot" but ready to go. Easy, flexible, inexpensive and uses standard parts.
The only advantage of 66 blocks over this method is the ability isolate individual station jacks by removing the bridging clips. This is fine for "phone guy" types but I don't want to have to go onsite to solve that sort of simple problem.
The troubleshooting method I usually employ is:
1. Unplug the jacks at the surface mount box above the 110 block and check for dial tone. Sometimes you have to wait a minute or two for dial tone to return if there is a defective phone that has shorted the line. No dial tone then check at NID and usually call the phone company.
2. Once dial tone returns to the jacks at the surface mount box then reconnect the 110 block. If dial tone drops then I have the customer unplug all the phones and other devices from the wall jacks. Next check for dial tone while reconnecting each phone or other device one at a time. Usually when one of the phones is reconnected dial tone will drop indicating that particular phone is defective, usually the victim of lightning.
3. If all of the above fails I will go and troubleshoot. This is almost never required. Even if I have to replace the loop wires on the 110 block it takes at most 10 minutes.
Some may prefer 66 blocks for phones. My feeling is that 66 blocks are an "old" technology that cannot meet current specifications for twisted pair installations. Not really a problem for POTS (Plain Old Telephone Service) but if you have installed cat5 or better cable why not terminate it in the best possible way?
Caveats:
Not installed (yet) in the picture is a surge suppressor that will be mounted to the right of the surface mount box.
DO NOT use stranded wire on punchdowns. Stranded wire may work for a while then cause problems.
When crimping plugs onto solid wire BE SURE the plugs are designed for either solid wire or both solid and stranded wire. Close examination of the plug contacts will show either or both a "spike" for stranded wire or a "saddle" for solid wire.
This method is suitable for most homes and small offices. If you have more that 50 station wires you might want to look at more traditional methods.
In Conclusion:
mark128 I know that this is not what you wanted to hear. Skip555 and bkrike are correct in that if the end use of these cables is telephone you can just about do anything you want and still have it work. My point is that while you are running wire do it right. Wire is cheap. Cat5e is under $60 per 1000 feet. Home run everything back to ONE central location and be glad you did later.
