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How to pin a 25 pair wire to a 110 1

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verland

MIS
Apr 24, 2002
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Some years ago I swiped (er, 'obtained') a spool of leftover 25 pair communications wire. (see below for specs) A project has popped up and now I can use it.

I want to use it to connect two identical 110 blocks on seperate floors of a small building. This is called a 'riser', if i'm not mistaken. The wire will be be carrying analog/digital voice lines and POTS lines from the building's dmarc.

So here's my questions:
1)what is the pinout for this 50 wire chunk? There's a whole rainbow of wire colors, all with varying stripes. I'm sure there is a standard way of pinning this, but not sure where to find it. I could just make up a pattern and match the ends but if there's a standard I'd like to use it.

2)what tools/knowhow is required for installing a 110 block? I'm no stranger to adding/moving/etc wires on the front of existing blocks with a pick and a punchdown, but have never built one from scratch.

Thanks for any help!!!

Here's the text on the wire's jacket:
9905112J6-33 MPR/CMR (UL)-C(UL) CMG 25/24 AWG STC PRESTOLITE-S 19818 FEET
 
Groups go:
White - Red - Black - Yellow - Violet
(We Ride Big Yellow Vehicles)

Pairs go:
Blue - Orange - Green - Brown - Slate
(Bell Operators Give Better Service)

Tip is the wire with mostly the Group Color with a stripe of the Pair Color (thus White with Blue Stripe is Tip conductor, while Blue with White Stripe is Ring conductor)

Tip comes First, then Ring

So, start with
White/Blue
Blue/White
White/Orange
Orange/White

The rest of the White group (green/brown/slate)

Then the Red Group (Red/Blue, Red/Orange. etc)

Then the other groups in order


After you punch the wires down on the base of the 110 block, you need to seat the 100 connectors on top of them, so that you have a place to punch your jumpers down. These connectors come in 3 4 and 5 pair versions. You really need a special 110 tool that can punch 5 pairs at a time to have enough "oomph" to seat the connectors.
 
Good one Triple T!! A bit elaborate but I practiced it and it seemed to work. In a couple weeks I'll do the real thing and see if I've got it down. I also know of the five pair punch you mention, they're like $130...

Asides from keeping things common, are there any benefits to doing it this way?

Also, I get to tear apart a server room soon. It has a wall of 110 blocks. Can I remove the connectors and reuse them? I figure the connectors will have to be replaced. Thanks a lot,

vern
 
You can reuse the 110's and if you manually remove the cable off the c-4's or 5's you will not have to replace them either... Matt Wray
CCNA, MCP
mwray77518@yahoo.com
 
>You really need a special 110 tool
>that can punch 5 pairs at a time to have
>enough "oomph" to seat the connectors.

Or you can just hit the middle of the connector with a hammer, carefully...
 
You can use a standard 110 punchdown tool. It is a bit more difficult. But can definately be done. Start by punching the center pair of the C4 or C5. Make sure you use even pressure on the tool. Use the Hi impact setting if your tool has it. Then hit each location with the punchdown tool to make sure all wires are seated. It is best to use the 110 blade without the cutter.
You can remove and replace C4's and C5's if you really want to. To remove, use a pair of pliers. Grasp the center of the C4 or C5 firmly with pliers. Give it a quick, firm tug. It should pop off, (The wire pairs will probably come off with it). You should inspect the contacts of the C4 or C5 to insure there is no wire insulation left between them. If you plan to use the 110 block also, Make sure there is no wire insulation left in the wire holders.
Now.... you should also know that 110 blocks and C4's and C5's are not very expensive. As far as I'm concerned, it is easier and cheaper,if you consider your labor, to use new ones.
As the 25 pair cable comes in groups of 5 pairs, you should use 5 pair connecting blocks, (C5's). C4's will work but you will end up with one pair,(the violet/slate), that will not be usable.
 
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