can i splice a monitor cable?

[Trikeman72]

Hello
i have a monitor for a desktop PC that has broken off pins and another monitor for a desktop PC that the screen dont work. i wanted originally to remove the entire cable from each monitor and just plug in the other one to repair the problem.. unfortunatly only one of the connectors are the same type. so my great wisdom is to cut the cable with the bad pins off and splice the other cable to it...
the problem i ran accross (other than the masive PITA the soldering is) is i have an extra wire... i solderd all the like colored wires together (even the tiny wire that is inside the white tube looking plastic) I have 2 wires left on the monitor side (monitor that i want the cable to operate) and one wire left on the connector side ( part from the scavanged cable end with good pins)
neither of the colors of the 2 wires left match the one that is left on the pin side.. i was wondering if anyne knoew how to tell which of the 2 remaining wires left i hook the one left comming from the side of the cable with the pins on it??

Grey and Orange(or some type of screwed up tan or brown shade) is on the monitor side...
Brown is what is left on the pin side...

all 3 are the smaller wires as apposed to the 3 big fat wires which i have already spliced..

plz give me some help here other than replace the monitor lol...
thanks everyone

Bill

 

[dagwoodsystems]

The standard colors are as follows:

1 - Red
2 - Green
3 - Blue
4 - ID2 (plug-n-play monitor ID bit #2)
5 - Ground (which I think is the chassis/braided shield ground)
6 - Red's ground
7 - Green's ground
8 - Blue's ground
9 - Unused (A "key pin" to prevent you from plugging into a non-VGA 15-pin
    interface)
10 - Sync ground
11 - ID0 (plug-n-play monitor ID bit #0)
12 - ID1 (plug-n-play monitor ID bit #1)
13 - Horizontal sync
14 - Vertical sync
15 - ID3 (plug-n-play monitor ID bit #3)

So three colors outputs plus individual grounds for each, a shield ground, separate horizontal and vertical syncs, a sync ground and four separate conductors for ID bits. ID bits are used to determine the resolution, color and other adjustments for the specific monitor detected during boot time. These are also known as "sense lines" or "monitor termination lines".

Sadly, none of these colors match your description of orange or tan. The wire corresponding to pins 1, 2 and 3 are quite small, but so are several others. To my recollection, only the braided ground surrounding the component feeds have any real girth.

Anyway, there's a nice diagram showing the pin locations here:

http://www.compassnet.com/mfeidler/monitor.JPG

I would look for the matching color wire on the head you just cut off and match it to the appropriate pin.


Tim Alberstein

http://www.dagwoodsystems.com

 

[edfair]

Since there are discrepancies, for whatever reason, you probably would be better off using part of a video extension cable as source for your plug since it should have wires for all pins.

 

[Trikeman72]

thanks for the help ill see what i can figure out..

2 of the 3 heavier wires ( i believe were red green and blk?) matched to like colors on other cable.. so i figure the 3rd bigger wire must goto the one that is left...
I did the same with the thin wires (i believe there are 5 of them if i recall) all colors that matched i solderd together.. the 2 left does not match the one i have left on the new end so i am lost lol...

i have never seen a video extension cable know even less about them than i do what i ahve

If this helps at all..... the monitor type with the bad cable is...Princeton EO-700 and the monitor i am spliceing the new end onto is from a..... Memorex CDS-4583
try as i may i cant find a schematic to go from on either of these

bill

 

[jknichols]

Finding schematics with the wire colors is probably near impossible. I hope you haven't thrown out the old plug yet, because the best I can suggest is to use a meter with a straight-pin (hold or tape the pin to the meter lead to make a skinny probe) to try and map the pin vs. color map on both the old plug and the new on. There should be enough of a stub of the broken pins left to poke at with the straight-pin. If you cut the cable too close to the old plug to get at the wires, you may have to use a sharp knife to carefully cut away the plastic. My best guess is that the monitor with the broken pins joined some of the signal grounds (6,7,8, and/or 10) at the plug, while the "new" cable ran individual wires and joined them at the monitor. Unfortunately there is probably no standard color code, so even assuming that the yellow from the monitor goes to the yellow on the new plug is a bit of a stretch, especially on the ID pins.