95/98 upgrade - lost the 256 color & ability to play music CD's???

[romeo1]

I recently upgraded to win98. In the process I lost the 256 color display. Also, my cd's won't play. I can access the D drive & look at a program type CD, but when I try and play a music CD it just scans through the entire CD repeatedly, never stopping.

The graphics problem is causing me not to be able to see pics, colors are all messed up and on this website, it's hard for me to read the words.

I have tried the win live update, I've deleted the monitor & display drivers & rebooted. Also, on the MS website, it goes through a long way of replacing the .vga file, & I tried that.

I have a 133 MH old AST computer with a packard bell monitor.

Any assitance would be apprecitated!! My husband is forbidding me from buying a new system just because the graphics & sound are screwed up!!!!

thanks

 

[jakrabit]

ok... you may have to look for more recent drivers for your video and sound... do you get ANY sounds at all from this? or is it just not playing audio CD's?

right click on the my computer icon and choose properties... click on the Device Manager tab, and check to see if there are any exclamation marks or red x's next to any of your devices... red x's could either be a resource conflict, or the device is disabled...

you may get lucky and be able to get all the drivers you need for this at

http://www.ast.com/Desktop.htm

, and try to match up your series and model...

last - but not least - find a good, solid cast-iron skillet and whap your husband upside the head a few times... i have a pentium 133 at home as well... i use it to punish my kids, "if you don't clean your room, you will only be able to play on the slow computer"... this has always been effective in making sure they do their chores... Shane
and now for the impressive abbreviations:
DOA, SOL, AWOL, PEBKAC, id10t, FUBAR

 

[RayB2]

Yikes! what planet is your Hubby from, that computer and monitor is really overdue at the scrap yard. Ask him how he'd like to take a trip in a Nash Neopolitan.

 

[CitrixEngineer]

Before anyone else joins in the "old is bad" mantra, I'm running Windows 98 / Office 2000 on an Elonex 486DX/2@66Mhz, with 32Mb RAM. And it runs great, with no sophisticated tweaks.

If anyone else is thinking of throwing away their old pentium, e-mail me first - I'll gladly take it off your hands for my new firewall (the 386 I'm currently running could do with being retired!)

As jakrabit suggests, finding the latest drivers for your hardware is a good place to start.

Maybe a 'rebuild' would help.

Your CD-ROM issue sounds strange, though. Is this the same with all music CDs? Does it read data CDs? Open up the case and check that the cable hasn't become loose.

 

[jakrabit]

i didn't say old was bad, but my kids like to think so... i use a 486 at home for my DSL router (interal card running Linux as the router)... Shane
and now for the impressive abbreviations:
DOA, SOL, AWOL, PEBKAC, id10t, FUBAR

 

[ShaithisDanoveur]

2 problems I see here (aside from aging)

1st problem: Video card drivers. You aren't using the correct one for your card, and it's such an antiquated model that correct support isn't available.

1st solution: Get model of video card, locate last update for it that runs on win95/98. Install.


2nd problem: CD.

This isn't so easy. The last time I encountered this was due to the fact that the CD was using DOS realmode drivers, not Windows miniport drivers. With the age of your machine this is likely.

However, there's about a 2-year span in there where CD drives were made and some of those would run natively in Windows 98 just fine. Others wouldn't.

Here's how to check yours.

In explorer, locate C:\WINDOWS\COMMAND\EBD
The file you need is OAKCDROM.SYS - you need to copy this to your ROOT directory C:
Next step - back your CONFIG.SYS and AUTOEXEC.BAT files to floppy before going ANY further in case this does NOT work for you so you can restore.

Now go into notepad and open C:\Config.sys

You'll be looking for a line that looks like

Device=c:\cdrom\driver.sys /D:MMCD001 (or something similar - the /D is usually the key)

Another possibility is that DEVICE will actually read DEVICEHIGH

Make this line read the same up to the C:\ part

so you have DEVICE=C:
now add to that

OAKCDROM.SYS /D:MYCD

Finished product looks like

DEVICE=C:\OAKCDROM.SYS /D:MYCD

(or devicehigh, as the case may be)

Save this file. Now edit the autoexec.bat file

You're looking for a line that has MSCDEX.EXE in it.

This should be surrounded by remarks about being commented out by the windows installer, and the front of this line should read REM.

This is CORRECT.

If the MSCDEX.EXE does NOT have REM in front of it, PUT REM in front.

REM stands for REMark and makes the OS skip it and move on.

Ok, save the file. Shutdown and reboot.

Now see if first you can read a data CD. Make sure you have a drive letter for the CD. And finally see if you get audio.

If not, there is one other thing to check - make sure you have proper audio cabling (shouldn't have changed in your case), and check the volume controls, ensuring that CD volume is neither all the way down nor muted. about 90% is a good place to leave that slider.

If your volume knobs are ok, you're getting OTHER sound, plug headphones into the front of the CD (most have a jack) and make sure it's reading audio.

If not, despair not - a replacement CD will cost you a stunning $35 and takes about as long to replace as it took you to read this

Procedure is easy (with some experience) too.

1) Remove power
2) Remove plug from wall
3) Really remove plug from wall
4) Do not insert screwdriver into wall
5) Open case
6) TOUCH CASE RAIL WITH HANDS (both of them)
7) Remove all cabling to CD - follow where it goes so you know.
8) Remove screws from CD
9) You made sure no CD was in it before all of this right? If you didn't there's a little hole in the face - stick a paper clip in the hole and push gently, the tray will pop out.
10) Insert new drive after reading directions and setting jumpers appropriately.
11) Screw it down snugly (Watch it there, Conan)
12) Plug in new cables (if possible - older audio cables might need replacing to work)
13) Plug machine into wall and test prior to closing it all back up.

14) Call spouse something suitable, explain that the fact that the computer is older than the one in the car is why it's having problems, not anything you did.
15) Snort derisively.

16) After dusting self off following fierce attack by spouse, computer should be done booting.


Now please note - older CD's plugged into interface cards or into sound cards. New ones do NOT - they plug into the same kind of cable as your hard drive (in most cases). If you aren't comfortable with this please don't attempt it - get a professional, or get yourself a copy of either "Hardware for Dummies" or "A+ Certification Made Easy" - books along these lines will give you diagrams on how to do this stuff.

17) Make spouse go buy you a shiny new computer, and stick him with the old one.

Good luck to you

 

[CitrixEngineer]

ShaithisDanoveur: Quite a lecture!

I must pick you up on a couple of points, though.

You emphasise unplugging the computer, then touching it with both hands.

Actually, you need the machine to be plugged in, THEN touch the metal rail.

Why?

Because then the static from your body will go to earth. If you unplug the machine, all that static electricity (50,000 volts or so) will discharge through the machine!

On your first point, it's fairly unlikely that an "antiquated" video driver will no longer have support, since most modern cards are redesigns of old chips. I have yet to see an SVGA card that Microsoft's standard SVGA driver does not work with.

I have never heard of this 2 year period in which CD-ROMs wouldn't run in Win98 - have you got any linkage on this?

If you can get it, the SSCDROM.SYS driver from Samsung works with a wider variety of CD-ROMs than the OAKCDROM.SYS driver.

What's this obsession with the idea that anything over 2 years old is prehistoric?

My advice is: If you have heavyweight apps that demand the power of a new PC, then buy a new PC. If you have an old one that's running slowly, it might be due a rebuild, to revitalise it.

Why buy a BMW M5 if your Skoda gets you from A to B and back every day?

 

[ShaithisDanoveur]

Actually, ESD will discharge to a point of ground, traversing through the case structure and into the bench/table just fine without the benefit of powered earth grounds as most people don't have an ESD barrier on their benches preventing that grounding. You'll find that touching a doorknob with bare hands nicely discharges static, though having a key in your hand as a discharge point (like a small lightning rod) prevents that nasty shock. And I stuck a few hundred cases with mainboards in them in an ESD tester with varying grounding conditions, introducing sparks in the 50KV range repeatedly. Never saw a single failure. I did get to watch the FNG (freakin' new guy) buy a new Pentium processor years ago after forgetting to static discharge himself before grabbing it. And of course he did this by grabbing the metal pins. The point being, unless you're in an excessively high-static area, simply touching the case with both hands is more than sufficient. If you're working in a known high-static environment, you should have ESD equipment, mats, and perhaps a humidifier in the room to eliminate the static problem.

The CD's not working in Win95/98 natively are actually older than 2 years - those would be back in the 2x-4x category, and lemme think... Teac had a couple, Mitsubishi, Mitsumi are the ones that come to mind. There were a few others, but I don't remember names at this point, it's been that long ago. Anything over 4x is generally over that period and works fine. I don't know that anyone has a list of exactly which ones did and didn't work - back then we all just kinda banged on 'em til they worked and then gasped joyously. I don't know that any list would still be existing today on the 'Net as most would have been removed as "ancient history" at this point anyway.


On video cards: Granted most modern ones are improvements on older designs. However, there are cards made by manufacturers who do not exist for one reason or another anymore, and were not standard reference implementations of the chipmaker's video sets. As a result, standard drivers didn't always work, and getting those cards to work could be problematic because of a lack of driver support. Laptops are notorious in this vein actually

And as for the MS SVGA driver - I know my GTS Ultra doesn't care for it overmuch, and it's arguably just about as new as they get.

S3 cards had a few derivatives that were particularly nasty if you didn't get exactly the right driver - a generic driver didn't exist in their case. But Windows would certainly attempt to use one and it was invariably the wrong one. The worst video nightmares I ever had were at the hands of Diamond Multimedia's Stealth64 series cards. I was *so* glad to find Matrox at that point


As for the assertion that any computer part over 2 years old is antiquated, it is. See Moore's Law

 

[alex304]

Okay...I think you are both slightly in error...If I am attached to a computer ,plugged or unplugged, with an ESD strap then it is like we...the computer and I...are one. And the last time I tried...everytime I've tried I could not give myself an electrostatic shock. So, one hand on the computer plugged or unplugged and there will be no ESD.


Alex

 

[CitrixEngineer]

I don't know whether we should carry this debate somewhere else, but I'd like to know the answer - proven with facts to back it up!

The theory I've always lived with is that the power cord should remain in the wall, but switched off.

This allows a constant connection to earth without a current flowing around the PC.

You may have sparked computers and not seen a failure, but shocks may not blow the component, just induce degradation which may shorten the life of the component.

Although you and the computer may "become one", there is the initial point at which you connected in which several thousand volts just shortened the life of your CPU by a year or two.

If you discharge into the PC, where has the voltage gone?

OK, that's a no-brainer!

Here's some linkage:

http://www.abcnews.go.com/sections/tech/Geek/geek990104.html

http://bytemark.com/static/basics.html

Even a wriststrap needs to pass that electricity somewhere!

I'm not convinced that you can work inside a computer without some part of you or the computer having a connection to ground. But I'm open to suggestion.

Regards

 

[alex304]

ok...I have no links or facts...what I believe to be right comes from what I know about electricity. It would be ideal to have static discharged to ground. But, I do a lot of contract work for different companies...and because of experience, I never trust anyones electrical wiring. I have come across voltage from the grounding circuits of a certain company that I did work for. This is the reason I always unplug a computer when I work on it. Static gets discharged because of a difference in voltage. If a computer is plugged in, its charge should be zero. If you have static, your charge will be much higher...possibly up to 50Kv. So, this voltage will discharge to ground through the computers power cord. If it is not plugged in the voltage cannot discharge but when you are in contact with the chassis, you and the computer have the same potential and therefore there will be no static discharge. Anyhow, a static discharge to the computers chassis will not harm the computer. A static discharge to the MOBO or any internal parts may not produce any immidiate damage but may shorten the life of any components...just as you mentioned. Anyway, I always unplug for my safety. Of course, I am only human and could be wrong, but I have taken many courses in A/C and D/C circuits. And if I am wrong..then please, by all means...let me know. I would hate to be giving false info.

Alex

 

[CitrixEngineer]

Alex - very interesting theory.

I've posted this question around, because I think it's important to know the facts when playing with electricity - not prove whether someone is right or wrong!

The majority of responses I've had have agreed with the theory that, if the computer isn't plugged in, then you should wear an anti-static wriststrap that is somehow connected to ground.

However, a large number of people have given this potential voltage theory.

You say that there will be no discharge if you and the computer are at the same potential. Does this mean you've still got that charge about you? When you go to touch a component, wouldn't you then have the potential to fry it?

I found this interesting:

http://homepages.pavilion.co.uk/jeremys/home.htm

I don't know if you're right or not - I'm trying to find out what IS right in this situation. We could save a few computers here

 

[edfair]

Problem is the voltage and resulting current flow. As long as the potential is there the problem exists. If computer is unplugged, touching the case before touching cards will equalize the potential. Both you and computer may now be at other than at ground potential but there is no difference to cause current flow. Having the computer power cord in keeps case at ground potential and touching the case brings you to ground, still at no potential difference.
Problem with static frying stuff is relatively rare now. Should have been around with the first version of cmos chips. Now there was frying. Ed Fair
efair@atlnet.com

Any advice I give is my best judgement based on my interpretation of the facts you supply.

Help increase my knowledge by providing some feedback, good or bad, on any advice I have given.

 

[alex304]

Okay...you will discharge to zero potential if the computer is plug, I agree. But I always unplug for the following reasons. I have been shocked by improper wiring...and one time, at band camp...oops, I mean one time I was watching a coworking working in a computer that was plug and the computer turned on...anyway. I have never damaged anything by ESD. The choice is yours.

Alex

 

[ShaithisDanoveur]

Unless the desk, flooring, etc is all completely non-conductive, the case sitting on the table is grounded. It isn't perfectly grounded. I wouldn't run lightning rods to it. But, it's grounded enough to handle ESD.

Having taken 220 across an improperly wired outlet, and 110 from another, I'll continue unplugging the little beasties before tearing their guts out.

Been shocked by an ESD strap too - bad isolator circuits can do more damage than just touching the metal leg on the darn desk and working strap-free.

 

[CitrixEngineer]

I would say that most wooden desks on carpeted floors are largely non-conductive ;-)

I've taken the odd 240v from a badly wired outlet, and in all my 20 years of ripping PCs apart, I've never seen one die as a result of my working on it.

The theories here are good, but in the average office I've worked in, here in the UK, I walk across carpeted floors to users wooden desks, and generally have had to attempt a fix there and then.

Much as I would rather drag the machine to the bench, users here seem to get upset if you drag their life's work away from them.

This means there is not a lot of available grounding. I realise that with ATX cases, some voltage remains even when the machine is "powered off", so I hit the switch at the wall.

I still leave the plug in, and clip a wristband to the chassis, because of the 3-pin plugs we use in the UK. This means a connection to ground remains, and I'm happy that I've taken every precaution to keep of ESD away from the components.

All I can go by is experience and available information. These theories are very worth considering - and I shall certainly research this area further - but all information I have found supports what I have learned through my (limited) experience. Maybe it's different in the U.S.



We never stop learning!

 

[edfair]

Nah, ESD is ESD. My only precautions are power plug removed and I'm in contact with the frame at some time before I touch anything that could be zapped. Haven't used a grounding strap in years.
On one of the workbenches I have capability of discharge (1 megohm to a waterpipe) but I haven't used it lately either.
Just a matter of developing a procedure and following it every time you open a box. pretty soon it becomes automatic. Ed Fair
efair@atlnet.com

Any advice I give is my best judgement based on my interpretation of the facts you supply.

Help increase my knowledge by providing some feedback, good or bad, on any advice I have given.