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66 Block Set Up 3

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dowjonestt

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Jan 7, 2008
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Anyone have any diagram or suggestions on the proper mounting of 66 blocks and mushrooms. Proper or standard suggested distance between the blocks and the mushrooms etc.

 
I wasn't the original questioner but I enjoyed that site, franklin - Thanks and a star! Good info there.
 

Here is a picture of a small closet I have here with around 100 pair feeder. This closet probably has 60 sets working out of it. The spool boards fits on top on the full back boards with your 89 B brackets.

Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something.
Thomas A. Edison

For the best response to a question, read faq690-6594
 
I swa that an installers training tape was available from someone call Sandman however can you believe this they will only sell it in "Video Cassette" format. How silly is that.

I told them "who ownes a video player these days".
 
I'm sure Sandman will sell you a video player. He probably even has it available in reel to reel.
 
You should have a mushroom at the top left side, the top right side, the bottom left, the bottom right for each 66 block to be used for cross connections.
The distance is determined by the area, but not more than an inch or two from the block is OK.
On multi-block installs, the mushrooms on the right act as support for cross connection for the next block on the right and for the block on the left.

Even 110 type blocks should have a good system of wire management, and many come with factory made ones for the tops and the bottoms, but we still use mushrooms for the horizontals.

Good Luck,


Has been in the cabling business for about twenty years and is now the Sr PM for a cabling company located in the Los Angeles area.
Also a General Class Amatuer Radio Operator.
 
If you are going to "clean it up", I would remove the 66 blocks and go with 110. Much cleaner and uses a lot less space.
 
110's seems not as flexable. I can't mark on a 110 block with a sharpie.
 
They aren't as flexible, but since the house cable is on them what flexibility did you need? My printer prints DESI's for 110 strips better than I can write on a 66 block with a Sharpie and it looks a lot better.

It also fits 72 cables in a space where you only get 36 cables on 66 blocks.

LkEErie
 
I agree with LkEErie....and to add to that, if you like things to be neat and up to standards, each cable needs a unique identifier at both ends. Not to often do you see new facilities with the identifier written in sharpie. Thay went by the wayside along with 1A2 gear.
 
have u ever tryed to tone a cable on a 110 block it is a whole lot easyer on a 66 block might not look as nice or as compact but it sure makes toneing alot easyer thats for sure

 
This looks like we are drifting into the "66 Block Vs. 110" again which goes back to personal preference. I won't add to the debate but using 110 for your house cables (main feeds to other places, floors, equipment rooms, ect.) will wear out.

You will need to replace the blades as they are not made for constant reuse. The blades will loose their ability to make a good static free connection.

In this pic

IMG_0800.JPG


I have over 15,000 pairs of cables and I have never had to replace the first block because of a bad connection. All station jumpers color coded, circuits, and cables are labeled.

But again it going to be a matter of personal preference.

Hell, there are no rules here - we're trying to accomplish something.
Thomas A. Edison

For the best response to a question, read faq690-6594
 
I have to agree, it's never the same from one closet to the next. But sweeping in from the bottom with the cables I would place the blocks as close to eye level as i could, with 4 fingers between each and a mushroom halfway between & few inches above,with one at each side of the start and ending row. Wire that block so it can come free from the bracket, if ever need. But what the customer wants, is always the rule.
 
I had to jump in for 66 blocks. The quickest way I've found is to set and level your first block, then lay a bracket on the side of it, and put your second block where that one leaves off. The second column is automatically level, and you just put you 'shrooms in between.

A real time saver.
 
If you take the time to properly plan an installation, and do all the "right" things, including designations at both ends, why would you need to "tone" anything??

I would not base my choice of connecting block on whether it is convenient to tone trace! I don't think you will find any reference to tone tracing in the TIA standards...

The whole idea behind properly applying and using a connecting block system is understanding its design, limitations, use concepts, and the standards that apply to it.

....JIM....
 
You may find bits and pieces of the standards but they are for sale. You have buy them from
or


The main things the standards try to do is just what it says. Make everything "Standard" so regardless of brand or manufacture, it will all work and be to a particular standard.

"right" things,
This is something that is within you or it's not. I believe this was posted to help you set this up "right" the first time. If you do, you will have something good and decent to work on from now on.

Something that I think most people miss, is that you really get one shot at laying out a frame or wall field. From there it grows and there's no turning back. It will either be nice to work on or a PITA. The planning will determine which it is.

The wireless telegraph is not difficult to understand. The ordinary telegraph is like a very long cat. You pull the tail in New York, and it meows in Los Angeles. The wireless is the same, only without the cat.

Albert Einstein


For the best response to a question, read faq690-6594
 
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