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It sounded like he was swapping jumpers, which could have added to his problem. I doubt he got a new 320 GB as a bare drive, so the 80-wire cable was most probably there from the box. I was going with the odds here. Then again, maybe he had a 40-wire with #28 snipped, thus, cable select capable...

Does it show up in Device Manager as working properly under the general properties dialog for the sound device? And, in the Sounds and Audio Devices control panel, is it shown as the default device? Not muted? Even if nothing is audible, can you select a Windows sound scheme and hit the play...

I was going to mention the freezer trick, but it has never ever worked for me. BTW, I'd still clone it while it is running. Glad you got it solved. Nice.

If it won't show in the BIOS on multiple machines, then I would acknowledge that it is dead and the IDE has fried. It's not fair to blame the WD, but based on past experience with them, I would venture to say it flaked on you and took out it's connected neighbor, the Seagate. If it's under...

I never tested one, but I would want to look at important stuff like quality of construction, good beefy, solid hinges, a good cover latch, clarity of the screen and importantly, the layout and feel of the keyboard. How much video power does it have? I already saw two red flags that should have...

What's wrong with Cable Select? Then you can try it anywhere on the cable. Forget the Master/Slave settings. Initially, it sounds like the WD had fried and possibly taken the Seagate with it, or visa versa. Or, they both got equally zapped. Normal PSU doesn't mean there wasn't static or a spike...

I have an 8 station network/server system (2003 Standard) at home with just about everything running to support my clients. By far, my Win 2K machines are my favorite MS units. I have come to really like XP thanks to the million or so patches and improvements in the last couple of years. When I...

LOL! Then again, so are we...

Laptop or desktop? Makes a difference... Ben and Goombawaho are right, it's trying to stay cool. But a desktop will pretty much always run, as opposed to a laptop which runs only when necessary to conserve power.

OK, then all I can think of at the moment is a dead or dying CMOS battery on the mobo. Now we're "fishing" for answers. Can you disassemble it? Check the heat sink, the fan, the internal battery? Will the battery pack charge to 5 lights (90 + %) if left plugged in? Do you have a multi meter to...

Followup/followup: Customer cranked this machine all weekend and reports no problems and said it was running "faster". So, In my case at least, I think reseating the heat sink was the answer. Case closed. <g>

Could be all that you have cited. But I would consider the problem in this order: 1)The battery, based on my similar (almost identical) experience. 2) A failng hard drive that quits after getting worked and warm 3) The AC adapter 4) The adapter jack on the laptop 5) An internal problem...

I copy the warning about the email. I'll read the rules more closely. Sorry and thanks for the "get well". I hesitated about mentioning Nlite, but that is a solution. But you still need the drivers to make it work. Actually, I found that SATA drivers necessary to install Windows XP are missing...

Go for the bad battery. I just had this issue recently on the same model. For some reason, they don't run without a good battery installed. Replaced the battery and all was well. Was the battery indicator LED blinking red?

Oops!! I gotta learn how to read! Did you originally say it has a Serial ATA? Stop the presses!! You may need the SATA drivers on a floppy! I'm sorry I didn't read your original post more carefully! Unless the BIOS is translating the SATA as an IDE, but with your stop error I don't think...

ok, NOW WE GET SERIOUS: STOP:0X0000007B is Windows telling you that you have an inaccessible boot device. Either the HDD is bad (highly suspected), or there is a conflict with your Windows installation CD's OEM mass storage driver that crashes when it tries to load. Windows halts the system...

Some things to try: Uncable the HDD and try to boot. Still get the same error? Will it then boot to the CD? Is the blue screen the famous Microsoft BSOD? (Blue with white letters? With instructions on removing recently installed hardware, stuff like that?) If so, then it's getting to the HDD...

This won't specifically apply to your one-issue problem, but for those that mess with different drives or want to backup to bare drives, etc; I found this little item to be invaluable: Coolmax Multifunction Converter http://www.coolmaxusa.com/extenclosure.asp?item=converter I can, via USB...

Follow up: I pulled the thermal unit and I was mistaken on one thing, there is no paste (which I should have known as most laptops are using metal foil), but I placed a light layer of Artic Silver anyways. There's not much holding the thin heat plate to the CPU so I think the silver will help...

If the hardware can't see the hardware, you are at square 1. Sounds like a straight hard disk failure to me. However, pull the drive and place it into another working machine as a secondary or whatever, and see if it spins up and then if it gets recognized. If so, then put a known working...